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Thread: Well, 19Lbs heavier

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California, United States
    Posts
    1,582
    NIce to hear new data! And that seems liek a great deal for a set of flow matched 19LB'rs.

    Mine is glass smooth now. The only noise from the engine bay is a noisy AC compressor, but I have a spare, just haven't felt like swapping it out because it actually works great, just a little noise.

    Thanks for the update,

    Scott
    All sold a while ago

    1995 RRC LWB - LT230, $G Front Bumper


    1960 109" 5 Door Station Wagon w/Deluxe Rolled Bonnet with Spare Recess. Frame off restoration. PO setup 289 Mustang with D60 rear end with chromolly inners. Recently moved to Sacramento awaiting a place to finish the restoration.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    8,840
    I need more info on this, and if it will work with a 3.5l? This sounds like it would help out my truck!
    It's about people and the Land Rovers that own them.
    01 DII : 95 RRC LWB : 88 RRC SWB

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Dunmore, PA
    Posts
    104
    Mine is still running great, and the mileage seemed to get a little better over time, as the injectors 'loosened up' a little. I've also noticed that the car runs significantly cooler with the slightyly richer mixture; as an aside, I also had the exhaust 'sniffed' before and after I did mine. The HC was up a small amount, still well within the limits, but the NOX, CO2, CO, and SO2 were all down significantly.

    Overall, I'd say this is a great change for not a lot of dollars, and the improved mileage will pay for the injectors quickly, even if you spent the $500 on brand new injectors!

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Burbank, CA
    Posts
    90
    Guys,
    I'm doing this swap, and I am having a hell of a time removing the RAM air housing from the intake manifold. The bolts are undone, but the housing doesn't budge at all. Any ideas on how to separate them?

    Thanks,
    sam
    1995 D90 #451 - Sold
    1993 LWB - GenIII Arnott, Bilesteins, Bottorf Sliders & Bumper

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Greer, SC
    Posts
    751
    if your talking about the plenum which covers the trumpets, just double check to make sure the 6 allen key bolts are gone and take a dead blow hammer (sand filled rubber mallet) and hammer on the area where the air intake hose comes in. That should loosen it up. Or just beat other areas that seem good with the soft face hammer. Good luck. Mine was stuck but a couple of whacks loosened it up.

    --Justin
    '96 D1 300TDI 5spd Alpine White

    --------------------------------
    DISCO SEAT FIX for a broken D1 front seat!!

    --------------------------------
    "Jeeps may be famous, but Land Rovers are Legendary.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California, United States
    Posts
    1,582

    Plenum

    Like he said, gentle blows with a rubber or dead blow hammer. Mine resisted my efforts as well. And after looking to make sure I had everything off, I started usage persuasion, and it worked.
    All sold a while ago

    1995 RRC LWB - LT230, $G Front Bumper


    1960 109" 5 Door Station Wagon w/Deluxe Rolled Bonnet with Spare Recess. Frame off restoration. PO setup 289 Mustang with D60 rear end with chromolly inners. Recently moved to Sacramento awaiting a place to finish the restoration.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Burbank, CA
    Posts
    90
    The plenum (six allen bolts) came off easy. It's the RAM air housing (between plenum and intake manifold) that is stuck. That is what the RAVE says to do before I removed the injectors. The rail for the injectors doesn't move much otherwise, but if there is a better way to do this I don't mind not removing this piece.

    Sam
    1995 D90 #451 - Sold
    1993 LWB - GenIII Arnott, Bilesteins, Bottorf Sliders & Bumper

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Greer, SC
    Posts
    751
    I didn't have to take off the intake trumpet parts. You can remove the fuel rail without pulling it. It takes some persuasion itself but it should come off after removing the mounting bolts and disconnecting it fromt he fuel lines.

    --Justin
    '96 D1 300TDI 5spd Alpine White

    --------------------------------
    DISCO SEAT FIX for a broken D1 front seat!!

    --------------------------------
    "Jeeps may be famous, but Land Rovers are Legendary.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Dunmore, PA
    Posts
    104
    same here...you cann take the rails off with the air horns in place once the rails are disconnected from the fuel line. Don't forget to depressurize the system at the shrader valve (do all of our cars have the valve?) and open the gas cap, or you WILL take a shower in hi-test!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Burbank, CA
    Posts
    90
    Alright, so I did get the injectors off without removing the trumpets, but it was a real hassle. Man against machine! Those who have used the yellow Gen III injectors, does the injector sit perfectly flush like the original or is there a small air gap? I am having trouble with this, will have to take a picture and post it. I'm afraid over time you can have some dirt accumulate between the gaps.

    Thanks,
    sam
    1995 D90 #451 - Sold
    1993 LWB - GenIII Arnott, Bilesteins, Bottorf Sliders & Bumper

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