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Thread: Overheating

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Malta
    Posts
    33

    Overheating

    When ever I press the gas paddle down i.e. over 40miles per hour the temperature starts climbing high. If I ease on the gas it goes down again. Recently I've been told that my radiator is not adequate for a 2.5ltr engine and I should change it to a 4 core one. Any truth in this? Is it a straight forward operation and could it be carried out on a series 3 with the front panel not in line with the mud guards?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Menifee, Ca
    Posts
    721
    Do you have a stock fan with the clutch on it? If it's not engaging the fan won't pull air through to cool the water in the radiator.
    Look for oil around the center of the clutch. If it looks dirty, from a small amount of oil, it's bad. Engines turning fan isn't, what I mean is the rpm's go up but the fan doesn't keep up with it. It still turns some.
    Eric
    Don't judge me cause I don't use spell check!

    95 D1
    SCLR-#901

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Greer, SC
    Posts
    751
    i dont know, at forty miles per hour I don't think the fan wouldn't be affecting that at all. I don't think the fan would be pulling air in faster than the car was going at 40 mph. Personally if it was a fan issue I would think the overheating would occur at idle at a stand still. My vote would be for a bad/stuck thermostat. My truck did this (96 disco) same thing. As I would accelerate to get on the highway the temp would climb as fast as the tachometer. When I got off the highway the temp would stay up and then gradually fall. It would be fine for driving around town. I opened her up and found that the thermostat was jamming half open. Replaced it and no more problems. good luck; although it could be a clogged radiator as well.

    --Justin
    '96 D1 300TDI 5spd Alpine White

    --------------------------------
    DISCO SEAT FIX for a broken D1 front seat!!

    --------------------------------
    "Jeeps may be famous, but Land Rovers are Legendary.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Malta
    Posts
    33

    Overheating

    I'm not sure I get the drift with a clutch fan? Mine is turned with a pulley and belt system. I couldn't agree more about the car more likely to heat up when it is idle but mine doesn't. Actually it works extremely well at speeds less then 40mph. It's only when I accelerate that the problem appears and desappears almoust instantly once I drop the speed. I have changed the thermostat 3 times but to no vail. I have been told by a guy that the problem lies in the radiator itself. it is not clogged as I have just serviced it but he is insisting that I need a four core radiator instead of my two core one. Is it true. You have to consider that here the temperature is already over 25 degrees centigrade

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    617

    Viscous clutch fans

    With a viscous clutch fan, you still have all the belts and it always seems to be spinning, but it is driven at varying speeds. Be careful, but try this. Get a big thick rag and with the engine and fan turning at idle, slowly press onto the spinning fan blades and amazingly, the fan will come to a stop but the engine will still be idling. There is a clutch in the fan hub that allows a direct drive at lower RPM and a slippage at higher RPM (or the other way around). If the clutch has gone and the fan is not playing the game, you will have heating issues. Another test that perhaps you should try first as it does not involve the potentail amputation of your fingers is to turn the fan manually with the engine NOT running. The fan should turn with some resistance, but the pulley it is mounted to will not. If it does not turn, the clutch is locked and it it turns very easily, it is slipping too much. It should be smooth and easy with a few pounds resistance.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    617

    Fans

    Damn. I submitted that before I was finished. All the above applies if you have a Disco, Defender or Range Rover etc. Series Vehicles do not have viscous fans and fingers should not be placed into the blades even if they are padded.
    If it is a series Landy and you want an electric fan as a suppliment, I have two new ones. Never used, in the boxes. These are not the pieces of crap that I removed from the Bobtail last year because it was overheating

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Menifee, Ca
    Posts
    721
    If your vehicle is equiped with a clutch on the front of the fan it would be easy to tell.
    It's attached to the verry front of the fan, it's circular with fins all around. about 5 inches in dia.
    it has nothing to do with the belts and pullies behind the fan.
    can you spin the fan when the motor is off.
    I've had the same simptoms on other vehicles and it ends up being the fan clutch.
    What year is you rig?
    Eric
    Don't judge me cause I don't use spell check!

    95 D1
    SCLR-#901

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Idaho ... finally.
    Posts
    855
    I would be very surprised if your Series has a viscous clutch fan. None of the Series trucks came factory with them that I know of. Chances are you'll take a look at your fan (if it's an original motor) and just see fan blade that bolts directly onto the pulley.

    If you've already replaced the thermostat, the radiator was fine, then I'd be looking at some of the smaller things - temp sender, gauge? Temp sender is an eight dollar fix and the gauge, well, Lucas wasn't known for making things work well, so I'd replace with a mechanical gauge, just my preference.

    I had issues very similar to your's and after all was said and done, it turned out to be the gauge.

    1964 SIIA 109 | 1973 SIII 88 | 2000 Disco II


    Series Restoration
    Buchanan Family Home
    Rover Alley

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Malta
    Posts
    33

    Overheating

    My model is a 1975 original 2.5ltr engine which was fixed instead of the sluggish 2.3. There is nothing fitted in front of the the fan but the radiator is very close making it impossible to try anything listed above. I have changed the gauge because the fuel gauge was not working properly but this has not effected the way the temperature shows as it has always been the same. Whenever I press the gas above fourty miles the temperature starts rising. Another strange thing is the fact that while water level is lowered in the radiator the overflow remains full. Usually all I do is remove the overflow tank and refill the radiator.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Menifee, Ca
    Posts
    721
    Well I'm out of ideas,
    Hopfully something will solve your problem.
    Good luck.
    Eric
    Don't judge me cause I don't use spell check!

    95 D1
    SCLR-#901

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