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Thread: 95 3.9 Crank No Start

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Orange Ca
    Posts
    215

    95 3.9 Crank No Start

    I know this topic has been discussed several times but nothing I have read is helping me. Hoping to get some direction here.

    Truck was running perfectly and dies without warning. Tried to restart immediately and it stumbled for a few seconds and died again. It has not restarted since.

    Two possible avenues to troubleshoot down: fuel supply or ignition.

    Fuel supply: Performed pressure test and I have 38 PSI before and during cranking.

    Ignition: No spark from coil.

    Now that I'm tinking ignition is to blame what should I look at? I replaced plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor a couple hundred miles ago. Pulled cap to look at rotor and found the rotor to be slightly discolored. The black plastic around where the center pin of the cap sits is turning color to grey-ish. Looks like this area got hot at some point. It is a Lucas part but is of the rivet variety. I will replace with a bonded rotor for good measure.

    Ignition amplifier module is the next culprit. What's the best way to test this part?

    Any other suggestions?

    Thanks in advance.
    1995 RRC SWB
    2005 LR3 G4 Challenge
    2012 Mustang BOSS 302 Laguna Seca
    1965 Mustang 289 4spd
    1963 Jeep Wagoneer

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Orange Ca
    Posts
    215
    Update: Acquired a copy of the RAVE manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure for no spark. This was extremely helpful. Coil is supplying strong spark. When testing rotor by introduce coil spark directly it sparks through the rotor. I ordered a genuine rotor in the hopes it is better than the Lucas part currently installed. I will provide an update next week.
    1995 RRC SWB
    2005 LR3 G4 Challenge
    2012 Mustang BOSS 302 Laguna Seca
    1965 Mustang 289 4spd
    1963 Jeep Wagoneer

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Atascadero, CA
    Posts
    1,795
    You need this style of rotor without the metal rivet... beware of factory one's lately have had the rivet!

    Sounds kinda like your ICM is bad... go to a junk yard and get the remote style off of a Disco 1.. much better and won't get as hot...

    Ok! tried to add an image to no avail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ROTOR.jpg  
    Last edited by SloHybrid; 09-07-2017 at 11:47 AM.
    95 4.6 Range Rover LWB 25th anniversary (Rovage)50230 cam/RPI ECU
    04 Range Rover
    87 white RRC
    93 Range Rover LWB Crawler 4.6


    Traversing Defense Mine Waterfall
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    NCLR #93

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Orange Ca
    Posts
    215
    Before ordering I confirmed the rotor ordered is bonded instead of riveted. What's the ICM? Do you mean the amplifier module? My 95 came with the relocated amplifier. I ordered another just in case. But, if the amplifier was bad I wouldn't be getting a spark from the coil at all.
    1995 RRC SWB
    2005 LR3 G4 Challenge
    2012 Mustang BOSS 302 Laguna Seca
    1965 Mustang 289 4spd
    1963 Jeep Wagoneer

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Orange Ca
    Posts
    215
    Received the Genuine Land Rover rotor and it is of the riveted construction variety. I purchased the part from Rovers North and in their picture they show what looks like a bonded rotor. I visited a Land Rover dealer and looked at their service part they had in stock and it was a riveted rotor. I find it really hard to believe that Land Rover would be using service parts that had an inherent flaw due to their construction type.

    The rotor fixed the car. Runs perfectly, except for a reoccurring code 48 (stepper motor) fault illuminating the CEL. Going to look for a bonded type rotor to keep in the car as a back up.
    1995 RRC SWB
    2005 LR3 G4 Challenge
    2012 Mustang BOSS 302 Laguna Seca
    1965 Mustang 289 4spd
    1963 Jeep Wagoneer

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