Brake lines blown.

[Brockflock]

I've been messing with my brakes for quite a while now. I had to replace one front caliper (the other one only has about 5000 miles on it. Got everything back together, had my lovely bride help me bleed them, and BANG!, I blew a brake line that runs under the truck, just about where the front and rear doors meet.

As I looked further, I would say it is a smart idea to replace both lines completely. Damn, I hate road salt!

So, I looked at RN, and AB for parts. All I really need are those two lines, unless the rust factor makes it impossible to disconnect at the various connections. All I see at AB is a kit, and it looks like the lines come coiled up. It also looks like they are copper. Could this be? How would I straighten them up if they aren't copper?

Anyone do the job of replacing those brake lines without a lift (you know, on your back in your garage)? I see (factory) splice connections right where they come from the engine compartment to beneath the vehicle, in a pretty tight spot. The rust issue is huge here. I have connections that are 2 years old, but have only gone through one winter, and they are frozen solid. All I do is wind up rounding the nuts, even with flare nut wrenches.

Anyway, please pipe up if you have any thoughts - from how to loosen those rusty connections to replacing the lines.

Thanks!

[fishEH]

Your best and probably cheapest option is to buy a roll of copper/nickel 3/16" brake line, some fittings, and a flaring tool. Run a continuous line from front to rear. The roll of line should be able to be straightened by hand.
Or you can buy a few lengths of hardline with fittings already attached and use couplings to join them. Some bending pliers will help to form this line.

[Brockflock]

Thanks. Last time I dealt w/ brake lines, the copper/zinc was not an option. Spoke w/ AB on friday, they tell me it is now legal in all 50 states. Sounds like the way I want to go. How about the ends, fittings, etc? As it's a LR, I assume they aren't "standard". BTW, I do have the flaring tool for the single bubble metric, and the correct pliers. I had to replace the the rear axle lines a few years ago.

The copper seems to be the most direct, and maybe even the easiest option. Anyone know how road salt affects them? This area uses tons of it in the winter. You can almost watch cars rot while standing in traffic!

[Brockflock]

Thanks. Last time I dealt w/ brake lines, the copper/zinc was not an option. Spoke w/ AB on friday, they tell me it is now legal in all 50 states. Sounds like the way I want to go. How about the ends, fittings, etc? As it's a LR, I assume they aren't "standard". BTW, I do have the flaring tool for the single bubble metric, and the correct pliers. I had to replace the the rear axle lines a few years ago.

The copper seems to be the most direct, and maybe even the easiest option. Anyone know how road salt affects them? This area uses tons of it in the winter. You can almost watch cars rot while standing in traffic!

[Brockflock]

Alrighty now!

I have the brake lines disconnected at the rear and the front. Now, I noticed when I disconnected the front of the lines, that the two pipes have different size fittings. Soooooo, I was wondering if anyone who has attempted this before, knows which side wheel uses which of the fittings up front?

From the pic (if it makes it, I'm a little challenged that way), on the far right side, there are two pipes in the top of the ABS pump. The one toward the rear of the vehicle is larger than the one in front. Sorry, I guess it's a little on the big side!

Once I know this, I can just rip out the old stuff, and start on the replacements. So, if you have this answer, or know where I can find it, please give a shout! Thanks!

[Brockflock]

Well, as my brother in law says,"When all else fails, read the destructions."

So I did, and sure enough, there it was! The answer to my question!

So far, all old lines have been removed. Starting on the reinstall tomorrow.