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Thread: Are Non-Genuine LR OE Front Lower Control Arms Acceptable?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
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    432

    Are Non-Genuine LR OE Front Lower Control Arms Acceptable?

    Hey all,

    This question is regarding a LR3:

    I got a new set of tires this week, so naturally I was on an alignment rack this morning. Got the expected news that the lower front control arm bushings are soft (which is kinda how they're made to be fair), but also that I need some new ball joints and inner tie-rods (I have needed those for a while). I had some RRS bushings pressed in about 33K ago. The bushings aren't blown, but it was demonstrated to me that light pressure with a prybar exposes a lot of play. I'm still unsure if that isn't just they way those bushings are?

    The price quote I got really wasn't that bad, but here's the question:

    The price was for an OE part from a German manufacturer, but not technically a genuine Land Rover part. I have seen that Atlantic-British has a similar thing going with their control arms and they recommend the non-genuine part as well. I have always used Genuine LR parts, especially where reliability is critical, but not everything genuine Land Rover is good; LR makes a ton of garbage too. I haven't followed the LR Enthusiast Scene for a few years now, so I was hoping you guys could chime in and catch me up to speed. Are these non-genuine control arms the way to go or is it still recommended to stick to the genuine stuff?

    Best regards,

    Dave
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    377
    I wouldn't do it.

    The places I have gone aftermarket are those in which the OE part is just plain crap....like the plastic T-Bleeder in the coolant system. For suspension parts I'd keep it real...I know the bushings are soft but you can get 50k Miles out of them, and to me that's not that bad.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blackall Range SE Queensland Australia
    Posts
    334
    I stayed with original . It's way too much trouble to use a generic assembly on imho .
    If it all goes bad , that's a lot of work to do it again . Not like brake pads , bulbs , belts etc .
    My bushings and b end started making clunk noise at 50,000m , and got replaced at 60,000m.
    This is just street use , so bad-roaders may not see 40,000m before worn out ?
    Last edited by neil p; 07-22-2016 at 02:52 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
    Posts
    432
    I ended up with the EuroSpare control arms. After a bit of research they turned out to be the same part, made in the same factory, but packaged differently. Had them for about 4K miles only so far, but they're working well thus far. Our roads in Los Angeles, CA, are so bad that sometimes I think off-reading would be easier on them. At least if I was off-road I wouldn't be smashing into pot holes at 70 mph.
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blackall Range SE Queensland Australia
    Posts
    334
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Alexandra Beach this lunchtime ..jpg 
Views:	24 
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ID:	30820Pot holes at highway speeds are bad news ! Fortunately we're in a tourist area , so the Council has lots of revenue and spends it on decent infrastructure ; roads and walkways/bikeways . Yesterday lunchtime :-)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
    Posts
    432
    Dang, dude. I'm coming to visit you! =)
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blackall Range SE Queensland Australia
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    334

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta Canada
    Posts
    565

    may have the B5 tie rod ends

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Legacy View Post
    Hey all,

    This question is regarding a LR3: The price was for an OE part from a German manufacturer, but not technically a genuine Land Rover part. I have seen that Atlantic-British has a similar thing going with their control arms and they recommend the non-genuine part as well. I have always used Genuine LR parts, especially where reliability is critical, but not everything genuine Land Rover is good; LR makes a ton of garbage too. I haven't followed the LR Enthusiast Scene for a few years now, so I was hoping you guys could chime in and catch me up to speed. Are these non-genuine control arms the way to go or is it still recommended to stick to the genuine stuff?
    Best regards, Dave
    That is pretty much my way of thinking. Most often I used Genuine LR, however some parts are just not the best. Back in Oct 2013, I put in genuine tie rods ends and 26,000 miles and 16 months later I was doing it again. This time I used an independent and he installed as you said, some German made tie rod ends. About all I can say is that it is now 10 months and 21,000 miles and all seems fine at the moment.

    I have a feeling that the German tie rods I now have might be manufactured and speced for the B5 armored 3, and that is why you cannot get a LR dealer to install same, or even admit to their existence - wrong parts they would say. You tend to run into that attitude when wanting to install RRSport suspension parts as well. In other words, I would gamble with the German parts.

    I see you are aware of the RRS parts thing. I presume you have the updated lower A arms? I installed left LR028249 and right LR028245 at 80,000 miles and they are still there. These A arms came with the new ball joint, RBK500280 installed. I imagine the part numbers have changed since then as that was back in April of 2011.
    2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion Fog light bulbs; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion device; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Upper liftgate cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs; 3 Blink signal light mod; Clock on the Dash; LR4 shorter hitch receiver; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav data update.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
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    432
    Heya Bruce,

    Yeah, I formally had the RRS bushings pressed in and they didn't last all that long. My ball joints were in bad shape too, which may not have helped. This time I just went with the German parts to LR3 spec. There's quite a bit of information regarding the RRS part numbers online across the various forums, so maybe next time.
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    83
    I swapped out the tie for ends, ball joints and went to the Orange poly bushing kit. Love them! Cost the same as replacing whole control arm, and those bushings will outlive the rest of the rig!

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