Brake problems

[Brockflock]

I'm back again!

This time, it's brakes. My pedal is very soft. About two years ago, I replaced all of the calipers, pads and rotors. I upgraded the fronts to Defender calipers, with slotted and drilled rotors. Also have EBC pads on all four wheels. I don't think my problem is in the wheels.

When I first noticed it last night, I checked the reservoir, and it was lower than it ever has been. I have no warning light on.

The front of the reservoir had a clear fluid on the seam between the top and bottom of the reservoir. I dried that off, and refilled the res.
I had to drive it a little more last night, and have just checked the res this morning. No fluid on the res seam, but the bottom of the cap has some. Also, the cap doesn't ever tighten, but it is on securely, if that makes sense. Res is still full.

Edit:I also looked at where the servo and master cyl. meet up. It looks like the fluid may have leaked out and travelled to that area.

AB has the whole unit as one: Res and cylinder.
Advance Auto shows the cylinder separate. Does that make any sense? Could it just be the res?

What do you guys think?

Thanks for any advice you might have.

[Brockflock]

Swapped out the old for the new like nothing.

Now, anyone have an idea how long it takes to bleed those brake lines? I've gone through a whole bottle, but the rear lines are still spitting out lots of air.

Anyone?

Thanks.

[jagfixer]

Master cylinder should be bench bled before installing and ABS ( if included ) has to be bled at all terminals on the block, then on to calipers. In my understanding and replacement of mine.

[Green Achers]

For what it's worth, my Master Cylinder Resevior emptied its self and I figured that out while driving the next day. The brake paddle had to be pumped to work weakly. In checking what happened, it turned out the seal between the Resevior and MC was aged (soft like chewing gum) and letting the fluid leak out and air gulp in.

Replaced those two seals, flushed the old fluid (should be done every two years to keep water contamination to a minimum), and bled the air. This took the super spongy braking to rock solid super stopping.

Besides bleding the MS, the ABS can contain air (which I think requires electronics to activate it to bled it). So I ignored that, and lucked out.

Also, the order to bleed the wheel cylinders is important. The order I used was LF, RF, RR, LR. Flushed each until clear fluid and no bubbles. Fronts took ~12 full peddle strokes, each cylinder. Rears too 20-25 full strokes each. Made sure to refill my master resevior after each wheel.

[jagfixer]

When doing brakes on a Land Rover, depress the brake peal with a rod and leave in this depressed state, it stops fluid from leaking out as you change hoses and etc. M/C should be pre-bled on bench and then installed. A power bleeder will help clear the M/C and ABS hydraulic module of air. Bleeds quicker with the key on and the electronic module for ABS on.