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Thread: rear trailing arm bushing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    capac michigan
    Posts
    67

    rear trailing arm bushing

    Hi all, decided to try and fix my range rover up for road use instead of buying an xl7, but im having a hard time finding info on how to replace the upper bushings on the rear trailing arms. The rave manual was kindof vauge. What i assume is to remove the axle side of the trailing arm first, then pull the arm and top bushing out together. But i dont know if i need to take the springs out, or if i should leave the vehicle on the ground in park to hold the axle still while i do one side at a time.

    This is on a 95 lwb with a coil spring conversion, a 2inch lift, and stock trailing arms. Any input would be appreciated, thanks!!!
    95' RRC LWB

    LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
    RTE 2" Lift Springs
    Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
    custom push bar
    Snorkel
    T-Case out of an 92' RRC
    Custom full length roof rack
    6 x 100watt offroad lights
    electric cooling fan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,408
    They're pretty easy to change. You can leave it sitting flat on the ground and not even remove the tire if you like, though removing the tire gives you a little more working room. Pull off the big nut and washer from the forward, frame end of the arm and remove the nut and bolt from the axle end, then lever the axle end up and out from between the eyes. The just withdraw the entire arm from the frame bushing, set it aside and remove the three bolts holding the frame bushing to its' mount. Just do one side at a time and you shouldn't have much problem, you might need to use a ratchet strap to move the axle back a little to get everything to line up when putting it back together.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    capac michigan
    Posts
    67
    Ok great, thats exactly what i needed to know, thanks TigerDan!!!
    95' RRC LWB

    LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
    RTE 2" Lift Springs
    Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
    custom push bar
    Snorkel
    T-Case out of an 92' RRC
    Custom full length roof rack
    6 x 100watt offroad lights
    electric cooling fan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    capac michigan
    Posts
    67
    Like you said, super easy. Did one side at a time, took me about 15 min a side, never had to move the axle. Next on the list is the rear brake rotor. Thanks again.
    95' RRC LWB

    LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
    RTE 2" Lift Springs
    Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
    custom push bar
    Snorkel
    T-Case out of an 92' RRC
    Custom full length roof rack
    6 x 100watt offroad lights
    electric cooling fan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    capac michigan
    Posts
    67
    Any one know of a cheep wheel bearing kit? did a little looking around but didnt find much, and what i did find was pretty expensive.
    95' RRC LWB

    LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
    RTE 2" Lift Springs
    Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
    custom push bar
    Snorkel
    T-Case out of an 92' RRC
    Custom full length roof rack
    6 x 100watt offroad lights
    electric cooling fan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,408
    I don't think I've ever had to buy new wheel bearings for a Rover. They're pretty robust, and one of the perks of parting Rovers is that I always have plenty of spares on hand. But I'd check out RovahFarm, Trevor has great prices and usually beats all the big suppliers.
    Last edited by TigerDan; 03-03-2016 at 12:19 PM.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    capac michigan
    Posts
    67
    It looks like Atlantic British is the least expensive.
    95' RRC LWB

    LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
    RTE 2" Lift Springs
    Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
    custom push bar
    Snorkel
    T-Case out of an 92' RRC
    Custom full length roof rack
    6 x 100watt offroad lights
    electric cooling fan

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Loomis, Ca
    Posts
    831
    Don't forget about rock auto if you can wait for shipping. Wheel bearings from timkin are $9.32 on their website.
    Trail Checklist:

    Rubicon (Buck to Tahoe in the rain/snow), Hell Hole
    ...

    96 DI 5" RTE, GBR 4.11's, ARB Front and Rear, 35" KM2's, custom front bumper, custom rear bumper, Roof Rack, Bottorf Sliders, Superwinch, RTE steering skid, Custom front diff guard...other and more to come

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    capac michigan
    Posts
    67
    Wish i would have found out earlier, i think i paid around 60 for a kit with the seal from Atlantic British. And a little update, the bushings didnt help that much, it is a little better but still compleatly undrivable. Looks like i dont have many options other than drop $140 on caster correction bushings and see if they help.
    95' RRC LWB

    LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
    RTE 2" Lift Springs
    Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
    custom push bar
    Snorkel
    T-Case out of an 92' RRC
    Custom full length roof rack
    6 x 100watt offroad lights
    electric cooling fan

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,408
    You were talking earlier about replacing the rear trailing arm bushings...that's not going to make much difference in tractability, I think you need to focus on the front end. You haven't really said what your symptoms are but I'm assuming the typical wandering, hard to control and you find yourself in the other lane or on the shoulder if you take your eyes off the road for even a second...?

    2" isn't all that much lift and usually only makes the vehicle tend to wander a little worse than normal. 3" lift and above is usually when it starts to be a handful to keep on the road. Sounds like you may have other issues as well. First check the bushings on the Panhard bar in the front, especially the frame end where it mounts near the steering box. What often happens is that when the steering leaks, the fluid runs down and softens the bushings there and they get really sloppy. This is also a major contributor to Death Wobble.
    Check all four tie rod ends for play, on the tie rod and the drag link and of course if there's any slop then the alignment will most likely be out.
    Check the steering stabilizer too. Is it stock or aftermarket, and what shape is it in? You'll probably need to disconnect one end of it and move it through its' range of travel by hand to see it's still stiff or worn out and mushy.
    Were the wheel bearings you installed for the front or rear? And have you checked the play in the swivel bearings, and tightened them up? If not it's pretty easy to do, takes about 1/2 hour per side. You'll need to invest in a fish scale from the hardware or sporting goods store, about 5-10 bucks.

    There are also caster-corrected swivel balls available, I think you can get them through RTE, among others. Not sure of the price, but I haven't really heard anything good about the offset bushings, mostly that they don't hold up very well.

    Before getting into it too deep though, you should measure your front pinion angle to see just how far out it is. As I mentioned earlier, a 2" lift doesn't usually throw it out too badly and it should still be very manageable, just require a little more concentration to drive. My '91 had 2" lift when I got it, I've gone up another inch and still have stock front trailing arms and swivel balls, no caster correction whatsoever over stock and it's very manageable and even comfortable to drive. The fact that I have Truetrac up front helps a little bit, but I don't think it's really the answer to all tracking problems.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

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