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Thread: Just completed my LT230 swap!!!!!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Belmont, CA
    Posts
    54

    Just completed my LT230 swap!!!!!!!

    Wow - the forums back - That's made my day. Thanks to whoever got it back. Have really missed it.

    Well, lots have happened to me to spice up my Land Rover life since its been down. Given the beast hose and coolant swap and fixed the leaking valve cover gaskets, but that's the minor job.

    Finally - after a year of driving front wheel drive - swapped the BW for an LT230 - TWICE!!!!

    First time round got it all back together and found that it stuck in neutral - even though the selector was in high - would not move! Drained it and took the back off to find that the selector fork was mashed up, broken and off the selector ring - not good. One eBay purchase later and a second round of blood (literally) sweat and tears and have a working one in. Tested and so far so good!

    So what did I learn to pass on that I'd didn't read in my research ( in no particular order)

    • Get lots of zip lock sandwich bags to put all the parts in - one for each sub assembly - there will be a lot.
    • you can do this without dropping the exhaust
    • remove the handbrake assembly from both and refit after you have the LT in - it just slips right over the rear output shaft
    • The BW is a right b1tch to get out as the end overhangs the lip at the back of the body - I had to drop the transmission mount to get it low enough to get off the transmission output shaft
    • get new rubber mounts! - LT takes one with thicker bolts from a disco than the std RR mounts
    • The BW has 2 studs in the mount to the transmission. You will need to replace these with bolts. - I could not find great replacements in the h/w or auto stores - BUT looked closer to hole and found that the main case bolts from the BW are perfect sized replacements!
    • same with the 4th bolt you will need for the shifter - there's a direct replacement on the BW
    • take the oil pressure sensor off the lt before you start fitting it - you will bend and break it (I know from experience - fit it once on.
    • i bought a transmission jack - useless - a low profile floor jack is the was to go to lift - one person under the car holding the LT the other manovering and jacking - just agree you instruction set beforehand - basically stand the LT on its end with the input up highest and jack up till the trans input shaft lines up with the hole then fit! I put it in diff lock so that I could then move either output flange to ajust the position of the input gear.


    Will add any more words of wisdom (that's a larf!) if I can think of any.

    Anyway - job well done - now just have to modify and refit the console.
    Last edited by Timbo; 07-31-2015 at 02:17 PM.
    94 - Range Rover LWB - 241000 miles!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    Good job, sounds like you're now an LT230 Specialist!

    I'll add one more bit of wisdom that really makes a ton of difference when actually installing the LT. Remove the input gear retainer/cover plate from the rear of the LT before you install it, reach in and pull out the input gear, and remove the output shaft from the rear of the tranny. If you're installing an LT230Q or newer, you'll need to replace it anyway as the shaft for those has to fully splined. With all that out of the way the installation goes really easy, no messing about with lining up splines or risking damaging the LT230 input seal on the tranny output shaft. The LT can be lifter straight up into position behind the tranny and only has to slide forward an inch or so, takes only a few minutes to put into place. Then the tranny output shaft and LT input gear can be installed though the hole in the back of the LT and the cover installed.

    And reconnect everything (wiring, linkage etc.) that you can before you lift the tranny/transfercase assembly back up into position and install the mounts.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Belmont, CA
    Posts
    54
    Saw that on the web but did not do that - after going through twice makes LOT of sense - was a bit terrified of taking to good case apart - I managed to shear some case bolts from the diff lock inspection pannel on 2 of the collection of duff cases I now have. - did not want to do that on the last one!

    First LT was obtained with car - great gears - duff case - stripped treads on mounting hole and the drain plug
    2nd from eBay - front output bearing bad
    3rd was warranty replacement for above - stuck in neutral - this was the first I fitted - trial run
    4th was the good one!

    So I now have a collection in the basement! Any offers for spares?
    Last edited by Timbo; 07-22-2015 at 10:15 AM.
    94 - Range Rover LWB - 241000 miles!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    We might be able to work something out. I have several that need parts, always on the lookout for more for parts and fixers.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Belmont, CA
    Posts
    54
    Absolutely - mines a very needy mistress so some sort of exchange would be good.
    94 - Range Rover LWB - 241000 miles!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    PM me a list of what you need and I'll go through my spares and see what I have.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Belmont, CA
    Posts
    54
    PM sent
    94 - Range Rover LWB - 241000 miles!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bankead Hwy
    Posts
    7
    I am looking to do this very swap. I have an Lt230 out of my 87 RRC that I would like to install. Any advice and/or direction where to start and complete this project. All, going into a 94 lwb.....Thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Belmont, CA
    Posts
    54
    Lets see.

    Make sure you have all the bits you will need before you start. I needed:
    1) Case - check it works first! - you don't want to have to do this again
    2) Lt shifter and complete linkage - I had a hard time finding the metal plate that connects the diff lock linkage to the actual mechanism - bolts where the BW shiver was on the gearbox
    3). New rubber mounts for both trani and LT - the mount for the LT side is the same as the later disco mounts and has thicker bolts than the 94 classic one
    4). LT mount bracket from rubber to chassis.
    5). A disco front drive shaft
    6). New oil seals for the transmission output. And lt input - I also changed the output oil seals and felt washers on the LT output flanges. I also got new nylock nuts for the output shafts
    7). 2 Additional bolts for the LT to grannies mount as there are 2 studs on the BW - these can be scavenged from the BW main case bolts once you have it out. - also one additional bolt for the shifter - again this was scavenged from the BW
    8). Train output shaft - If your lt has a later cross-drilled input gear then this will be required. Check first you should be able to see the hole.
    9). Disc 1 handbrake assembly and cable

    Take your time, and plan ahead. This is not a job that you will do in an afternoon. Also read tiger's advice on taking the gear out and fitting the gear and trani shaft after the lt's bolted in. I would do it this way if I had to do it again as it will make it a whole LOT easier.

    Once in snip high/low neutral warning connector off the b/w and solder the ends together - use this and leave the one from the LT disconnected otherwise you will get a warning buzzer sound.

    there are a few great pictorials on the web - one doing this in a defender that shows what tiger described.

    http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601
    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/8-r...-see-pics.html

    You will also need to expand the hole in the console to give enough room to use the diff lock. What I did this was to first carefully peal back the plastic film on the top Making sure not to tear it to reveal the structure underneath. I thenused a Dremel to cut out the drivers side Coin tray to the edge of the shifter hole - I cut the shifter hole just past the corners on the top and bottom so I could preserve these for later use. from this cut piece (coin tray and shifter hole edge) I then removed and reused the shifter edge an then using a combination of epoxy and lollipop sticks re-glued it in where the coin tray had been - I then stretched and restuch the top material down again once epoxi had dried using contact adhesive.
    Last edited by Timbo; 12-16-2015 at 10:44 AM.
    94 - Range Rover LWB - 241000 miles!

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