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Thread: Lamp Delay Relay Draining Battery?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central Coast, Calif.
    Posts
    175

    Lamp Delay Relay Draining Battery?

    Hi All,

    Just checking my logic path here. Went out to the truck today to move it a few feet but the battery was nearly outta juice, charging it up I noticed that the cabin lights wouldn't go out... until after a long while. So I played with that and they are def. acting intermittent.

    So I pulled the B-2 fuse to verify it fed the interior lamps (as well as the clock and the radio/CD player).

    Went to the store and back after an hour, the battery was way down again. After starting I drove around the neighborhood a bit, all the while the interior lights stayed on.

    So now I'm under the steering column trying to pull the RED relay that controls this circuit. Damn that's a bitch. I might have to remove the air hose to the dash to gain access.

    Question: Even with the ignition off, the circuit must be energized to a degree high enough to run the battery nearly flat overnight? I know there is some drain from the clock -- and I have heard that the CD player can suck some juice even when off in order to store player memory.

    Since the interior lights do eventually go off, I am going after the relay as the culprit unless I hear otherwise!

    Thank,

    Paul
    '93 LWB, one of many L-R's over the years (GDE bumper w/Warn 8k, Disco axles, RTE 2" springs, Viair)
    1964 88" Truck Cab -- Stolen, then re-appeared locally after 20 yrs
    1966 88" Station Wagon -- Sold
    1967 NADA 109" -- Sold (after I wedged a 300 CID Ford 6 into it)... Help locate! Green 1967 NADA 109
    1990 RRC -- caught fire while wife driving solo... Good times!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    I had this happen on my '94 LWB, I didn't get around to troubleshooting it so it's still on my "to do" list for that vehicle. I was planning to try swapping in another lamp delay module. In the short run, I just left the fuse out while it was parked. As for the CD changer, if you pop the cartridge out then it won't suck power for the memory. Even so, the drain is minimal and shouldn't pull the battery down for about two weeks or so.

    You didn't mess with the metal relays in the pass. side kick panel, did you?
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central Coast, Calif.
    Posts
    175
    Hi Dan,

    I did NOT touch any relays in the passenger side kick panel. I have the shop manual, which pointed me to the under-steering-column location. This is one of the expensive relays looks like.

    I am still going to try to see if any of my door switches are good, which I trust they are. The fact that they dome lights stayed on driving around with all doors closed tells me the relay is going down to Lucas' grave yard.

    The bummer now is the dreaded radio re-boot with the code entering sequence once I get this thing figured out.

    --Paul
    '93 LWB, one of many L-R's over the years (GDE bumper w/Warn 8k, Disco axles, RTE 2" springs, Viair)
    1964 88" Truck Cab -- Stolen, then re-appeared locally after 20 yrs
    1966 88" Station Wagon -- Sold
    1967 NADA 109" -- Sold (after I wedged a 300 CID Ford 6 into it)... Help locate! Green 1967 NADA 109
    1990 RRC -- caught fire while wife driving solo... Good times!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    As long as you have the radio code at hand, entering it is simple. It's really a 30-second procedure, I have to do it every time I work on the '95, changing the battery or disconnecting it so I can work on the electrical system or whatever. Hardly worth a second thought.

    And I just had a thought since you mention door switches...they work by shorting to ground so if one is bad or a wire is off and grounding out, that could be your problem. I recently noticed a problem on my '91 RRC with the switch on the upper tailgate, it seems to have gone bad and is shorted causing the lights to stay on, but since I have an override switch installed to kill it when I open the hatch and don't want it on, I just keep the switch off and haven't worried about fixing it. Worth looking into, for sure.
    Last edited by TigerDan; 03-02-2015 at 11:13 AM.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central Coast, Calif.
    Posts
    175
    i usually have a hell of a time getting my radio to understand the sequence. I think it's because the individual buttons don't always 'take" the input when I press the key.

    I am going to check all my door switches today to see if there is a short. Would rather have that than get under the dash.

    Tx,

    Paul
    '93 LWB, one of many L-R's over the years (GDE bumper w/Warn 8k, Disco axles, RTE 2" springs, Viair)
    1964 88" Truck Cab -- Stolen, then re-appeared locally after 20 yrs
    1966 88" Station Wagon -- Sold
    1967 NADA 109" -- Sold (after I wedged a 300 CID Ford 6 into it)... Help locate! Green 1967 NADA 109
    1990 RRC -- caught fire while wife driving solo... Good times!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central Coast, Calif.
    Posts
    175
    " I recently noticed a problem on my '91 RRC with the switch on the upper tailgate, it seems to have gone bad and is shorted causing the lights to stay on, but since I have an override switch installed to kill it when I open the hatch and don't want it on, I just keep the switch off and haven't worried about fixing it. Worth looking into, for sure."

    Huh... So I did remove that same upper tailgate switch and wasn't exactly sure it was making good contact when the plunger was pressed in. So I took an emery board to the contacts and lubricated the action lever. I think my problem is fixed, but we'll see in the morning!

    Meanwhile, here are the scary things under my driver's side dash:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    To the upper left is what I think must be an auxiliary cell phone unit from the era of this rig's day -- 1993. There was something like this that I removed from the load space some years ago. Is it possible that the PO had TWO cell phones installed in his Rangie???
    Detail:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is a pic of the dome light relay -- it's not red, like the manual says, but gray-ish (I think L-r refers to this color as "natural":
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And the other amigos all in a line just above the steering column:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well Someone has def. been here before:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    --Paul
    '93 LWB, one of many L-R's over the years (GDE bumper w/Warn 8k, Disco axles, RTE 2" springs, Viair)
    1964 88" Truck Cab -- Stolen, then re-appeared locally after 20 yrs
    1966 88" Station Wagon -- Sold
    1967 NADA 109" -- Sold (after I wedged a 300 CID Ford 6 into it)... Help locate! Green 1967 NADA 109
    1990 RRC -- caught fire while wife driving solo... Good times!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    That's the factory alarm ECU. And cleaning the contacts in the door/upper tailgate switches will ensure that they work when the door is opened, but doesn't solve the problem you're having. You need to find out if any of those switches are actually broken in some way that's causing the hot wire to them to short to ground.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central Coast, Calif.
    Posts
    175
    Morning Dan,

    Well I had no battery drain overnight, so fingers crossed that it's fixed for now. The wiring certainly doesn't look like a stock factory alarm to me, with the Radio Shack wire taps crimped on to my ignition wires! Plus the box is fed with thick coax cable...? I think the alarm module is over to the "inner" side of the that under dash area, just to the right of the steering column. It looks like a metallic box, about the size of a pack of cigarettes...?

    Anyway, we'll see how this turns out. I'll be going back in there again this summer when I go through my speedo binnacle to fix a broken trip odometer. I have a right mind to remove anything that is totally not needed.

    --Paul
    '93 LWB, one of many L-R's over the years (GDE bumper w/Warn 8k, Disco axles, RTE 2" springs, Viair)
    1964 88" Truck Cab -- Stolen, then re-appeared locally after 20 yrs
    1966 88" Station Wagon -- Sold
    1967 NADA 109" -- Sold (after I wedged a 300 CID Ford 6 into it)... Help locate! Green 1967 NADA 109
    1990 RRC -- caught fire while wife driving solo... Good times!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,410
    No, that would be the Cruise Control module. The unit you're showing in the pic clearly says Range Rover on it, and down at the bottom it gives the part number, RTC 7753, which is the anti-theft control unit. Flip it over and it should say, "Anti-theft system" right on it. Here's one just like it for sale:

    http://roversoffroad.com/ror-rtc7753...-control-unit/

    The coax is for the antenna for the remote. The home wiring job is probably where someone tapped into the hot wire for an aftermarket stereo or something. In the Rovers I've taken apart and worked on I've seen plenty of wiring jobs just like this.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central Coast, Calif.
    Posts
    175
    Okay -- duly noted. I have the L-R Stock stereo. Wonder what kinda stuff happened in the past. The original owner was an executive living in Maryland.

    The other funny thing is how poor the air vents are routed and plumbed. My business involves HVAC ducting, and this stuff wouldn't even come close to code - Ha ha...! I worked a little extra to get the far left vent to deliver air a little more effectively to my left arm.

    --Paul
    '93 LWB, one of many L-R's over the years (GDE bumper w/Warn 8k, Disco axles, RTE 2" springs, Viair)
    1964 88" Truck Cab -- Stolen, then re-appeared locally after 20 yrs
    1966 88" Station Wagon -- Sold
    1967 NADA 109" -- Sold (after I wedged a 300 CID Ford 6 into it)... Help locate! Green 1967 NADA 109
    1990 RRC -- caught fire while wife driving solo... Good times!

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