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Thread: who runs 37's on there rover?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    5

    who runs 37's on there rover?

    i am going to be doing a big build soon when i get back from my deployment. i have a 95 RRC LWB and i want to run 37's that i can get at a great price. just want to know if anyone is running that size and what is done to your rig to run them. any help is great thanks in advance. just need to make the military 16.5 inch rim fit now.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lake Villa, IL
    Posts
    449
    You're going to need a big lift, a lot of trimming, or a combination of the two. You'll need shocks and most likely custom upper and lower shock mounts. You'll need extended bumpstops and brake lines. You'll need to regear. That will make your open diff the weak point and you'll probably lunch your spider gears. So you'll want to install a locker for diff strength. And of course you can't install lockers without HD axles.
    Chad from St Louis runs 37" MTRK's on his D1 and he drives it to events. Basically though, running 35"+ will require a lot of $ and mods.

    There's also dislocation cones, radius arms, trailing arms, A-arm spacer, and so on. It adds up fast, trust me.....
    Last edited by fishEH; 12-06-2014 at 05:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    5
    thanks again for the response pretty much exactly what i was looking to get out of it but still more specific if possible thanks fishEH. i will have to contact this chad fellow and see what he has done exactly to make my life a little easier lol but any more help is greatly appreciated.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Grover Beach
    Posts
    371
    Search ciwhamc. He could run 37's but the truck goes everywhere on 35s.


    93 LWB RRC 3 inch rte lt-230, 35x12.5/15 bfg km2, GBR 4.14 with trutracs front and rear, Rovertracks front Hd axles and cv's, Ashcroft Hd rear axles,
    Rte rear trailing arms,Warn 8k, Custom bumpers front and rear, Flowmaster exhaust ,custom sliders GRB F+R driveshaft, RTE steering links. 12 in Bilstien 7100's
    04 Disco II Trail Rig
    99 Disco II- driveway art
    68 Baja perunner
    (NCLR053)(SCLR903)
    http://www.pacificadventuretours.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lake Villa, IL
    Posts
    449
    Chad goes by LunchBox on Dweb.
    Here's my truck, specifically.
    1998 D1 315/75/16 BFG KM2's
    3" RTE springs, wedge spacers in the rear. Rear springs retained. Cones in the front springs.
    Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks with Eibach shock bumps, 11" front and 12" rear. D2 front shock towers, custom lower mounts with Ballistic Fab retainers. Custom drilled RTE rear upper shock mounts, lowers adapters.
    25" SS Braided brake lines.
    RTE cranked radius arms, custom jointed trailing arms. RTE A-arm spacer.
    RTE adjustable panhard rod. Custom 1.5" OD DOM steering links.
    Sewer capped diffs.
    Tibus HD front axles/CV's, RoverTracks HD rear axles. Ashcroft 4.12 gears. Ashcroft air lockers front and rear.
    1.5" wheel spacers with stock Deep Dish alloys.
    RockStar Fab front and rear bumpers, Bottorf sliders. Columbia Overland fuel skid.
    Tom Woods DC front driveshaft. Viking GS-9 winch, and so on...

    I might be forgetting something, IDK. For me to run 37's I'd need different gears. I'd also need to cut a ton or lift the truck more or install a body lift. Shock uptravel also becomes a big issue and I'd need to cut into the rear cargo area to mount the rear shocks and I'd need new front towers.

    I didn't move up to 35's over night. It took about 4 years, many parts changes, and a ton of money to get things dialed in.
    Last edited by fishEH; 12-06-2014 at 09:47 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Atascadero, CA
    Posts
    1,795
    Well running a cheap 37" tire nowadays is impossible seeing as you can't get them in a 15" anymore!

    You will need to either run a 3" lift with a 2" body lift or run 5" lift springs also not available new anymore!

    As far as the body goes not only will you need to cut literally 4-6" out of the qtrs & fndrs you will also need to trim the rear doors and the wheel wells.

    Front is harder as on full lock to the frame it hits rear wheel wells so the water bottle will need to be relocated and then trim the upper rear of the front wheel wells too.

    This car used to run on 37's but were taken off when I bought it!

    It now belongs to Collin (CiWHAMC) and he has done the hardest trails on the west coast in it on 35" tires

    My 2 cents is don't do it unless you plan to run Dana 44's or 60's under there as you will constantly break those expensive halfshafts even if you do a Toyota e locker 30 spline conversion they will break. Stick with 35"s it is a lot easier and affordable!








    Last edited by SloHybrid; 12-06-2014 at 11:21 PM.
    95 4.6 Range Rover LWB 25th anniversary (Rovage)50230 cam/RPI ECU
    04 Range Rover
    87 white RRC
    93 Range Rover LWB Crawler 4.6


    Traversing Defense Mine Waterfall
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqczzhsWOh8

    NCLR #93

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    5
    Thanks for all the input guy helps my decision a lot. The main reason for wanting 37's is I can pick up the MT for super cheap. And I am doing a diesel conversion just worried about running 37's as a daily driver also lol. I can get a set for 300-450. But don't wanna be constantly replacing axle shafts and because they can't handle daily driving. Was trying to keep the rover axles just making them stronger but might just have to replace the axles as well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    5
    Your rover looks nice by the way you ever thought about putting flares on there?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lake Villa, IL
    Posts
    449
    You should ask yourself if you do, or will, run the kind of trails that warrant 37" tires. For most people the answer is NO.
    A Rover on 37's will not make a good daily driver.
    Any savings you may see from a tire deal will quickly disappear as you make the required mods to run those big tires. It will cost you thousands of dollars to properly run anything 35" and up. On the other hand you would probably be OK running 33" tires without a ton of mods provided you're easy on the gas pedal and pick good lines.
    Here's a quick cost breakdown:
    Front axles/CV's: $700
    Rear axles: $500
    Gears: $600
    Front and rear locker(you'll want this as the stock open diff is just too weak): $1600
    Diff set up: $200 for DIY, $400-600 done at a shop including new bearings, bolts, shim packs, seals.....
    Wheel spacers or offset wheels: $200-500(needed because big tires are wide and will scrub the radius arms and inner fenders
    So far that's $2700 conservatively. I won't even get into shocks($700), steering rods($200) diff guards($200), panhard rod($100), driveshafts($300+), extended brake lines($100), springs($350), radius arms($300), trailing arms($200), and all the other small suspension components(let's just say $250+). Now you're looking at another $2700. Not to mention bumpers, winch, sliders.......... You see where I'm going.
    A 2" lift and flexy suspension will get you pretty far.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Loomis, Ca
    Posts
    831
    My $0.02. These guys are pretty spot on with their synopsis. But it's more about what you want to do with your rover. Yours will be unique amongst your friends and likely will be the only rover on the trail unless you happen to join a club or convert someone. So if that appeals to you and you have some cash I would say go for it. Not knowing your experience with off roading or modifying vehicles I can't say how much you would expect to spend on getting your rover to run the size tire you are looking at. If your plan is to buy pre-made parts from websites and bolt them on then fisheh has given you what you need to know. Another option would be to build parts yourself if you have the ability or buy a rover with many of the aforementioned parts on it and either run that truck or rob the parts and build yours(what I did). The other thing you need to think of is what type of off roading you will be doing. As mentioned before there are plenty of guys on 35's doing the hard trails around the country. Most of them don't run stock drive train components and most of them don't hammer on the throttle very hard. If you're looking to take advantage of an inexpensive tire deal and want to put a vehicle way up I in the air on big tires there are cheaper platforms to start from. So before you jump in with both feet a make certain that you know what type of wheeling you want to do and how much money you are willing to spend. I look forward to seeing your rover all built up and on the trail some day if that's the way you end up going.
    Trail Checklist:

    Rubicon (Buck to Tahoe in the rain/snow), Hell Hole
    ...

    96 DI 5" RTE, GBR 4.11's, ARB Front and Rear, 35" KM2's, custom front bumper, custom rear bumper, Roof Rack, Bottorf Sliders, Superwinch, RTE steering skid, Custom front diff guard...other and more to come

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