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Thread: Should I remove my horn?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Loomis, Ca
    Posts
    831

    Should I remove my horn?

    Ok so the title is a bit misleading. What I am referring to is the intake horn on my DI's air box. I need a place to put my ARB compressor and it looks like the only place in can reasonably put it without screwing something up. That little horn looks like a Venturi but I can't imagine it make much of a difference. Has anyone done this and seen or not seen any effects? Where did you locate your ARB. I'm not interested in putting it in the cabin so that kind of limits me. Thoughts?
    Trail Checklist:

    Rubicon (Buck to Tahoe in the rain/snow), Hell Hole
    ...

    96 DI 5" RTE, GBR 4.11's, ARB Front and Rear, 35" KM2's, custom front bumper, custom rear bumper, Roof Rack, Bottorf Sliders, Superwinch, RTE steering skid, Custom front diff guard...other and more to come

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,637
    Better find a better spot, onr that will not effect the performance of the engine. Doing what you want will allow real hot air into the intake and pull your power down.
    Mike

    Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, past member of the NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
    99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.

    To DOWNLOAD the RAVE Manual, follow this link http://www.landroverresource.com/

    Rover Radio issues or IPOD Adapters http://home.valornet.com/splacket/index.htm

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    50
    People remove the air box horn all the time, I had mine off pre-snorkel days. Tons of people put their compressors there, you're fine
    -1998 Land Rover Discovery
    -T.R.E.C. Tennessee Rover Enthusiasts Community

    "Don't Rover Over!"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Silicon Valley.......phooeey!
    Posts
    644
    Air box horn removal should not be an issue. In most cases, the "horn" helps to reduce intake noise at wider throttle positions. With our RRC, I ran without the air filter can snout with no difference in performance (feel) & mpg. There was a bit more noise with motor running & working under the bonnet. As the thing is so noisey, I couldn't hear any difference. My worthless 2 pence (a bit over 3 1/2 cents at the current exchange).
    "I am never more serious than when I am joking."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,637
    You are both wrong. Allowing hot engine compartment air top flow straight into the t/body does change your performance. Why do you think so many companies are making cold air kits for all type of vehicle.
    Will you notice a difference, not by much, but throw it on a dino and you will see a difference in HP and Torque, so why do it?
    Mike

    Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, past member of the NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
    99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.

    To DOWNLOAD the RAVE Manual, follow this link http://www.landroverresource.com/

    Rover Radio issues or IPOD Adapters http://home.valornet.com/splacket/index.htm

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Silicon Valley.......phooeey!
    Posts
    644
    How about right & wrong? The standard rule is for every 10 degree drop in the air temp of the intake charge, you can expect to see a hp increase of approx' 1%. Take our RRC, trumpet, or no trumpet, it will draw in heated air due to it's location. Truthfully, if I ducted cold air in, there would be a fair amount of temp gain from the flex tube between the MAF & the plenum, along with heat gain from the plenum & intake soaking in heat. From my years or race involvement (SCCA Trans Am, Formula Atlantic, IMSA AAGT/GTO/GTU & development work on a Lola Indy car) yes, a cooler air charge is very important. An engine on a dyno, is generally operating in an ideal situation with cooler air being drawn in form a source away from any heat & fuel coming from a source cooler than would be had in a racing chassis. That helps engine builders get some huge numbers.
    As for myself, I don't run the RRC anywhere near the 4750 revs to make the 150 bhp. So the 1% gain at whatever it makes at 2000 rpm may not amount to much. On one car, we played with fuel cooling (until it was deemed illegal) with some positive results. Better results than seen with air ducting. Why do so many companies make / sell cold air kits?........"To make $$". I have no doubt that some may offer some performance gains, in certain applications. In my days of peddling race spares, I had the situation explained best by Bill Simpson. Simpson Safety was making jackets for everyday wear with a Nomex outer shell, same material as the race driving suits. I asked "Why?". He answered, basically with, "We are in the business to make money, right?!?"

    I'm not saying anyone is right,or wrong. I hope we can just agree, that we can disagree.

    I now return the thread back to it's upright position & original subject.
    Last edited by great gormless beast; 07-07-2013 at 11:09 PM.
    "I am never more serious than when I am joking."

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Loomis, Ca
    Posts
    831
    Thanks guys for the replies and lesson in business/performance. I think I will go ahead and remove the horn. I am also considering cutting the platform, which is probably the RHD battery tray out to drop the compressor down a few more inches possibly giving me enough room to not alter my intake and keep the compressor located in that area. After I get some more progress ill give you an update
    Trail Checklist:

    Rubicon (Buck to Tahoe in the rain/snow), Hell Hole
    ...

    96 DI 5" RTE, GBR 4.11's, ARB Front and Rear, 35" KM2's, custom front bumper, custom rear bumper, Roof Rack, Bottorf Sliders, Superwinch, RTE steering skid, Custom front diff guard...other and more to come

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lake Villa, IL
    Posts
    449
    What about relocating/downsizing the washer fluid bottle? Who the hell needs a gallon of fluid anyways?!
    Or you could remove the ABS modulator and that would free up a bunch of space too.
    And I know you said NO to inside the cab, but consider this. I have my 12V Puma compressor and 1.5gal tank mounted in one of the rear cubbies in the cargo area. It takes about 2 minutes to charge the tank in the morning. I can then run both my lockers on/off, on/off, etc all day off the charged tank without the compressor kicking on. So maybe a tank is worth looking into......

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Loomis, Ca
    Posts
    831
    Heh bud. I had considered the washer bottle location but gave up on the idea because I think the mods to keep the washer fluid flowing would be more involved than the locker install itself and I don't really need another project. I did just buy a house. I kinda like the abs. It's saved me a few times on the road from being stupid but it has caused a serious pucker a time or two off road. There is just something about removing a working system.
    I like your idea of mounting inside but I don't have any cubbies because I have jump sears. I've probably only used them 4 times in 9 years but those 4 times they came in really handy. It's something I might still do. I just need to ask a guy at the smog shop about my intended mod.
    Trail Checklist:

    Rubicon (Buck to Tahoe in the rain/snow), Hell Hole
    ...

    96 DI 5" RTE, GBR 4.11's, ARB Front and Rear, 35" KM2's, custom front bumper, custom rear bumper, Roof Rack, Bottorf Sliders, Superwinch, RTE steering skid, Custom front diff guard...other and more to come

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lake Villa, IL
    Posts
    449
    My ABS was failing in on road conditions. Pulled the fuse and decided to ditch the whole system. I also ditched my jumpseats early on. So are you putting an air locker in the back and moving the TT up front?

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