Page 1 of 7 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 70

Thread: 1995 Discovery 1 Heads /w ARP studs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremont
    Posts
    349

    1995 Discovery 1 Heads /w ARP studs

    Hey guys. I figured it's time to get into it. I'm going to start working on my D1 soon.

    I'm doing a head gasket replacement with ARP studs. I should wait till I start but I can't wait. I wanted to document everything step by step and do it with pictures so everyone can see. I wanted to read someone's past experience for the lack of mine and I can't find anything out there.

    I only see people write that they did start the work and nothing else. I wanted pictures and a full report. So I figured I would do one myself. Here it is starting today!

    This is my baby. Day one.


    Things I need to start the work. I ordered a set of machined heads from John Gadd that look like this.


    I ordered a set of ARP studs for it as well. I think this will stop the replacement in the future. We will see.

    This is the gasket set with the ARP studs.



    Also added to the list was this


    Soon I will take some pictures of it when I start the motor up and test out things before really tearing into it. I want to do a video of the car running now and then I will do one after the work is done.
    Last edited by ToyDisco1; 09-30-2012 at 06:54 PM.
    I spend more time fixing things than using them. My motto is " If it breaks.... F it I'll weld it"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremont
    Posts
    349
    I should add that I did try the LIQUID fix and it didn't work for me. So I have no choice at this point but to dig into it and replace the seals. I hate hard work.

    I went to the store and bought this stuff called K-seal.



    I asked the store were they sold this stuff if this really works and they said yes because there was no complaints.
    So I gave it a shot.
    Guess not! I went back and I told them what happened. The same guy I bought it from told me that it should of worked but if it's a big enough hole that nothing can really fix it. And the only way to do that at this point was to replace the seals.

    So I went surfing and found a solution. I'm going to use ARP studs instead of the stretch bolts and use machined heads to avoid down time. And finding out that I can get a set of these from John for cheap was a win win deal. Paying a machine shop would be the same cost. So I came to the conclusion that it would be worth buying another set of heads. Now the studs are better because they don't stretch. And finding the torque specs is kinda fun. I hear 80lbs and 60lbs. So I'm going with 60lbs first.
    Last edited by ToyDisco1; 09-30-2012 at 06:53 PM.
    I spend more time fixing things than using them. My motto is " If it breaks.... F it I'll weld it"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Denver Metro
    Posts
    468
    ARP studs are definitely the way to go. There's a reason why just about everyone uses them from hotrods down to daily drivers.

    I'm looking forward to this writeup. It's like an adventure from the relative comfort of my computer chair!


    Colin

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lodi, California
    Posts
    2,873
    i will be watching this!
    1997 D1 6" lift 33" bumpers, glasspack ,HID's
    comming soon Sliders, toy conversion,35"s

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremont
    Posts
    349
    Got some minor work started today but I wasn't really trying to work. I did get more involved after a few hours. But doing pictures and video at the same time didn't help. I'm just one person.

    So here we go!!!



    Before removing the plug wires I noted the firing order just to make sure it was right and going back to the same order.



    This was the right one and I started working again.



    Now to remove the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.







    Then off to the intake






    NOTICE SOMETHING FUNNY?????????



    WHERE IS THE GASKET HERE???????

    Its getting late and I need to finish this part at least today. So I started removing all the wires from everything I could get out. Injectors and sensors.





    Finally I got the fuel rail out and that was my ending for tonight.


    I spend more time fixing things than using them. My motto is " If it breaks.... F it I'll weld it"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ripon, Ca. (That's not England chaps)
    Posts
    1,514
    The one I just did was missing the intake gasket as well. I wonder how much improvement that really makes now that I installed one.

    By the way, I searched for my heads receipt to get the Santa Rosa company name but didn't find it in my records. I did find the price for the two heads (Used Machined and Valve Job) with tax and S/H was $444.99 total (no core). They looked as nice as the two you got.

    Bill of Green Achers Farms
    Adventure for fellow Geeks! Geocaching
    Land Rover Repair Manual - Download Site
    1. 1996 Discovery I - Yet to be named
    2. 1998 Discovery I - "Kermit"
    3. 2000 Discovery II - Parts Donor


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremont
    Posts
    349
    Here are some videos I took at the same time. They explain themselves. CLick on each one. I'll edit this all later. I might have some crap I need to remove but you'll get the picture.











    THIS ONE IS THE INTERESTING ONE!!! VVVVV click below!!!!!!!!!!!------------------


    I spend more time fixing things than using them. My motto is " If it breaks.... F it I'll weld it"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremont
    Posts
    349
    Quote Originally Posted by Green Achers View Post
    The one I just did was missing the intake gasket as well. I wonder how much improvement that really makes now that I installed one.

    By the way, I searched for my heads receipt to get the Santa Rosa company name but didn't find it in my records. I did find the price for the two heads (Used Machined and Valve Job) with tax and S/H was $444.99 total (no core). They looked as nice as the two you got.
    That is a good deal for a local machine shop. It's worth the drive as well. And knowing you can go back and b!tch about it to him if something goes wrong so he fixes it there and then.. LOL

    I remember a street called Piner rd. Is that him? It's gotta be!

    The gasket missing is not something they should be doing. I have a feeling we both had the same mechanic do both of our previous head work. Shaddy Mckensy ! I would of even used some kind of RTV silicone if there wasn't a gasket for it. Why do all that work just to half as$ it?
    I spend more time fixing things than using them. My motto is " If it breaks.... F it I'll weld it"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Silicon Valley.......phooeey!
    Posts
    644
    If memory is correct, when I did my '87 / 3.5 litre there is no gasket there. I believe Hylomar is the suggested sealer. Unless it's changed, you really don't want to use RTV/ Silicone anywhere near gas.
    "I am never more serious than when I am joking."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremont
    Posts
    349
    Day two

    I got my heads from John G. SEXY!!!




    Getting started!















    I spend more time fixing things than using them. My motto is " If it breaks.... F it I'll weld it"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •