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Thread: Wiring for a camper with brakes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Ridgway, CO
    Posts
    70

    Wiring for a camper with brakes

    Hi all, we just picked up a Fleetwood Evolution 2 camper and I need to wire the Disco to tow it. I was thinking of picking up the wire kit from Roverparts.com (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9439C.cfm) then finding an adapter to change the flat 4 connector to the round 6. Here is what the plug on the camper side looks like (http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/H20046.html). I realize this would leave me without the brake function on the trailer but would their be any other potential issues with going this way? Any suggestions are more than welcome!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    1,014
    I don't like the factory converters.
    You don't mention the vehicle, but this is what I did for my Disco's

    (This is for a '95 & '97, check the ETM in RAVE for the '98 wire colours)

    Vehicle side of 7Pin Trailer Socket: (second colour is trace)
    Black - Ground
    Red/Orange - RH Tail
    Green/Purple - Stop Lights
    Green/White - RH Indicator
    Green/Red - LH Indicator
    Red/Yellow - Rear Fog
    Red/Black - LH Tail

    Single Pin Socket A:
    Green/Brown - Reversing light

    Single Pin Socket B: 20A fuse F6 in Satellite 2 (I think)
    Purple/Brown - Power
    (I connected to this to supply power for the battery for the break-a-way trailer brake controller)

    I got this Hoppy kit:



    For connecting to the vehicle wiring I cut off the round factory connector behind the right hand panel in the rear and used uninsulated butt connectors sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to connect the wiring.
    For the brake controller I ran the wiring above the headliner and mounted the brake controller to the overhead.

    I drilled a hole in the bumper large enough to fit it through and installed it there. I drilled and tapped 4 8-32 holes and use stainless socket head allen screws to retain it. I put 1/4" nylon spacers between the socket and bumper because the socket is too deep to recess fully.
    For the 4-way plug I used something like this for adapting to the L/R wiring:
    (edit: This converts from the European separate brake/indicator to the US common light found on most trailers)


    The 4-way on this receives the 4-way from the above trailer multi socket. I cut off the round Rover factory connector and connected the wires from the LiteMate to the Rover wiring using uninsulated butt connectors and sealed them with water tight heat shrink tubing (do not use the Scotch Lock connectors).
    All connections received a liberal amount of di-electric grease.

    For the controller I'm using a Tekonsha P3


    Which I got here:
    http://www.adventurerv.net/tekonsha-...er-p-1911.html


    edit:
    After breaking two of the plastic Hoppy 7-blade sockets I've replaced them with good all metal Cole Hersee 7-pin sockets.
    So I've gone from this


    to this.



    If I need it, I'll install a 4-way round socket next to the 7-way.
    Last edited by antichrist; 04-09-2012 at 11:52 AM.
    Tom
    62 88 Regular
    67 109 NADA x2
    79 Lightweight
    95 D1 R380
    95 D90 300tdi R380
    97 D1 ZF

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Ridgway, CO
    Posts
    70
    Nice, thanks for the info. It's a 2001 BTW. Gotta decide what I want to do, that looks like a pretty big project.
    Thanks again,
    Randy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fairport, NY
    Posts
    1,083
    This one is right up my alley. I work for U-Haul. First of all you showed a SEVEN round connector with flat blade pins. I assume that is what you are going to use. There are seven rounds and six rounds, and they can have round pins, so make sure all of those details are worked out.
    Next, you will need a wiring harness that converts from your tail light setup to a flat four connector. Send me your info year make model, etc. and I will work up a quote for you. It will show you the costs, and the labor fully installed. There are a zillion electric brake controllers out there, but they all wire the same way. Also, they need a 30 amp circuit braker for the controller as well. I will need your name, phone and e-mail. PM me if you wish. I can then send you the workup from U-Haul directly. It will probably show my (NYS) sales tax, but you can ignore that. Frankly, installation is a real PITA, and U-Haul does not charge enough for the labor, so you might consider having them do it. Every hitch quote we give surprises the customers in comparison to the trailer sales places or dealers.

    Finally, I have had 2 separate units from AB, and they both went bad after very little use. They are badly overpriced, and don't hold up.

    And just in case you are wondering, I will get no compensation for working up your quote. Just glad to do it for a fellow Rover enthusiast.

    Bill Brock
    Brockflock
    Disco I SD '99 Stock 144k mi. New stock suspension, new steering box, new rear shaft joints, Cooper Discovery ATR's and announcing a totally redone set of heads. May 2013: Brakes converted to Defender style: Calipers, stainless flex lines, drilled, slotted and vented rotors. Stops like it hit a wall when you stand on them now!
    12-2016 update: Coopers are done. Michelin Defender LTXs on the way!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Ridgway, CO
    Posts
    70
    Thanks for the info. I have a 2001 Discovery 2. You can PM me at randy@peaktopeakbicycles.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    1,014
    Quote Originally Posted by rcharrette View Post
    Nice, thanks for the info. It's a 2001 BTW. Gotta decide what I want to do, that looks like a pretty big project.
    It's really not that bad. I'd wire it so you can use the electric brakes. If the trailer has a battery for electrics you can use the same circuit that charges the breakaway switch battery to charge the "house" battery.
    The advantage of doing it yourself is that you will know how it's wired so that you can troubleshoot any issues down the road.
    As long as you take your time, don't cut corners and pay attention to detail you should be fine.
    Tom
    62 88 Regular
    67 109 NADA x2
    79 Lightweight
    95 D1 R380
    95 D90 300tdi R380
    97 D1 ZF

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

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