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Thread: A different approach to the washer bottle relocation mod???

  1. #1
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    A different approach to the washer bottle relocation mod???

    I've been organizing my bookmarks and came across this one.
    http://rtadlock.blogspot.com/2007/12...id-bottle.html

    It seems like a pretty simple way to keep my tire from rubbing against the stock bottle, and out of sight with the RTE Slimline bumper. I'm thinking about taking this approach since the SAI pump is in the usual place people do this mod. I would change it a little so the filler tube is in the same location from the factory, this would also allow a little more volume. Maybe use the top part of the stock filler tube to keep the cap and filter/screen? I'm just thinking out loud here.

    Has anyone tried this, or see any potential problems with it?
    NCLR #70 BOD member

    "RovrFlo" '01 D2 108,000 miles
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  2. #2
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    I read that article last year and agree it's inspiring. I haven't made one (yet), but the problems that I can think up are:

    Water Hammering - As the liquid level goes down, it will slam the ends of the tube, especially as you accelerate or decelerate. The longer you make the tube, the higher the hammer pressure will get. This may not be a pressure concern as much as a strange noise or vehicle shake. It would be easy to design this to minimize the effect if needed. Tilting the pipe would help minimize this.

    Pump Submersion/Loosing Prime - You almost need to have a sump to assure the pump will not grab air as the liquid level lowers and starts sloshing back and forth. Keeping the tank full or not running the pump while accelerating would solve this. Tilting the pipe would help minimize this as well.

    I'd have a tough time cutting that hole to make the fill tube look 'cool'. I'd rather have it odd looking but useful instead of odd looking but useful AND have a hole to boot. But if you must, a rubber hose lining a hole always makes the hole look professional though.

    When you do your project, take pictures so we can see it.

    Bill of Green Achers Farms
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  3. #3
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    Yes, pictures for sure. I was thinking it would be good to angle it towards the pump side, and maybe add a little reservoir at the end with a 90* elbow for the pumps. Of course I need to actually get under there and see how much room I have first.
    NCLR #70 BOD member

    "RovrFlo" '01 D2 108,000 miles
    mods vids 2008 & 2009 trips 2010 trips 2011 trips


  4. #4
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    You have a boat load of room. I started making bridging ladders that will tuck away under my D1. If four ladders hide away, one tank will for sure.

    By the way, assuming you're using PVC to do this... You can get PVC into a jello like state at the proper temp and mold it (rather morph it) into any shape you desire. I've done this several times for irrigation systems. The trick is getting it heated evenly and not allowing any hot or cold spots (lest it burn or not bend respectfully).
    Last edited by Green Achers; 01-19-2012 at 05:53 PM.

    Bill of Green Achers Farms
    Adventure for fellow Geeks! Geocaching
    Land Rover Repair Manual - Download Site
    1. 1996 Discovery I - Yet to be named
    2. 1998 Discovery I - "Kermit"
    3. 2000 Discovery II - Parts Donor


  5. #5
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    New DIY washer bottle

    After reading the write-up from the link in my first post, I decided this was something I could handle. Yesterday I decided to remove the washer bottle, and devise a plan for a new smaller one. My goals were to have the washer bottle in the same location as stock, use the existing filler neck (or at least the top part with the cap and filter) and hopefully not have to extend the pump wires or fluid hoses. Using the stock location meant I had to find some way to mount the new tank. I figured a bracket would be needed to attach to the 2 existing locations under the headlight. When the tank was removed, I was happy to see the holes were actually elongated, and looked as though a hose clamp could just fit through. I was also nervous about pulling the pumps out of the grommets/tank and having them crack. Thankfully they came out with no problems, just be sure to take your time. I also cut the bracket that holds the outside of the stock tank, but kept the part that secures the fender under the turn signal.

    Once the bottle was out and I had a (vague) idea of what I wanted, it was time to make a trip to Lowe's. I left with the following supplies:

    x2 #72 Hose Clamps #72
    x1 3"x2' pipe
    x1 1.5"x2' pipe
    x1 1.5 90* street elbow
    x2 3" cap
    x1 3"x3"x1.5" ABS Wye
    PVC cement/primer

    After some test fitting it was determined that the pumps wouldn't fit on the end of the caps. The clearance needed to disconnect the power was too much, and would cause the tank to hang too low. So I decided to try and get them as low as possible along the length of the tank. During this step I used the 2" pipe to line up the Y pipe. Use tape on the stock filler neck to the 2" and let it hang trough the hole. Using the 3" pipe, I cut enough for an internal sleeve, so the cap would sit flush against the end of the Y pipe. This also helps by doubling the wall thickness where the grommets and pumps were going. Next came the other side and I determined that I should cap it in the same manner, with the cap flush against the Y pipe.

    I snugged everything with hose clamps and determined where I was going to drill for the pumps. I used a zip tie around the Y because as the hose clamps are tightened, they want to roll the new tank down. The largest bit I have is 5/8", and the holes for the grommets in the stock tank are larger than that. I'd say closer to 3/4"-7/8". I made sure the hose clamp passed between the grommets, and drilled. As the holes were reamed I kept checking the fitment of the grommets until the slightly tapered tip went into the frilled holes.

    I cemented the parts and let them dry overnight. This morning I did a flush to get any left of shavings out of the tank, used a little soap in the grommets and pressed the pumps into position. I filled the tank again and only first have a small leak on the outboard side (opposite of the pumps) wich I'll fix tonight. I'll also cement the pvc filler tube to the tank since it'll increase the overall volume a little bit. I cut the stock filler neck just above the first lip and it slides right into the 2" pvc pipe. There's just enough room to even keep the plastic retainer so the neck doesn't hit the air filter box.

    The pumps work great, I just hope they aren't too exposed. I'll update this thread with more long term results.

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    NCLR #70 BOD member

    "RovrFlo" '01 D2 108,000 miles
    mods vids 2008 & 2009 trips 2010 trips 2011 trips


  6. #6
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    Nice work. You could reduce your pump exposure with some steel (think a tiny skid plate). Let us know how it goes long term.
    Trail Checklist:

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  7. #7
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    I like it!
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sactodisco View Post
    Nice work. You could reduce your pump exposure with some steel (think a tiny skid plate). Let us know how it goes long term.
    Yeah, I'm already thinking along those lines. Thanks!
    NCLR #70 BOD member

    "RovrFlo" '01 D2 108,000 miles
    mods vids 2008 & 2009 trips 2010 trips 2011 trips


  9. #9
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    Nice! I'd be interested in how you get it covered/plated. At one point I thought of cutting the original wheel well cover and making some bracket for it, but I never figured it out.
    2004 Discovery S | Giverny Green/Alpaca Beige

  10. #10
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    Very nice.
    DII - Armor front and sides. Lot's of gadgets and leaks.

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