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Thread: Wheel Bearing

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    6
    10) Getting the hub nut off was not fun. I had to heat it with a propane torch, then use this contraption to break it loose.
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    11) With the hub nut off, I removed the rotor shield then I bolted an old rotor on backwards to the old hub so that I could tap it with a hammer and coax it off. There is probably a better way to do this, but again I improvised with what I had available.
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    12) Getting the hub off the spline was a pain. I was shooting lubricant on the mating surfaces and in the hole where the spline connects to the hub. Used a sledge hammer and a small hammer.
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    13) Finally got it off.
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    14) There was a lot of corrosion on the drivers side hub, which was the one making noise. I replaced the passenger side later, and it wasn't as bad, nor was it making noise, but I replaced it anyway.
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    15) I scraped off any rust with the sides of a screwdriver, then took some 400grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sanded the rust with WD40 as the lubricant.
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    16) Slide the new hub assembly on with the bolts lined up. Torque the center hub nut to force the spline in the new hub. I sprayed WD40 on the spline prior to this. Run the hub nut up a few threads, then bolt the four back bolts that connect the hub to the axle. After the four bolts are snug, finish tightening the center hub nut until it seats.
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    17) Tightened the center hub nut to 230Nm or 169lb.ft. On mine, the old dimple aligned with the spline recess. Torque the four hub bolts to 115Nm or 85lb.ft. Re-dimple the center hub nut into the half shaft spline so that the nut will not work loose.
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    18) Clean and re-mount the ABS sensor. Re-mount the rotor shield. Re-mount the rotor. Re-mount the brake caliper, tighten caliper bolts to 275Nm or 203lb.ft . Re-mount the brake line bracket. Re-mount the tire and get it off jacks.
    19) Repeat for the other side of the car...it somehow goes faster the second time. You just saved yourself about $1000 in repair cost.
    Last edited by tomstiller; 02-09-2012 at 07:38 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Pasadena
    Posts
    253
    quick tip, break the hub nut loose while the truck is sitting on the ground. Makes it easy to chock the wheels, put the e-brake on and use whatever breaker bar / cheater necessary to do the job..

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Denver Metro
    Posts
    468
    Awesome first post, Tom. Thanks for sharing. Oh, and welcome to the forum!!


    Colin

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tempe, Arizona
    Posts
    147
    Great write up, Thanks! I have just over 100k miles and I'm sure I'm not too far away from this too!
    2005 LR3 HSE, Dual Batteries, RS Stage III sliders, Rod-Mod, Mantec Front Skid, Rasta hidden winch w/Warn 9.5xp, 3/8" synth rope, 32" Goodyear Dura-Tracs, Viair 400c OBA, 10# CO2 PowerTank, HI-Lift with various recovery gear.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Yucaipa, CA
    Posts
    144
    Jig-A-Loo! That stuff is great! I use it all the time.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Alberta againt the east side of the rocks
    Posts
    14
    Nice write up.

    I had a Ford garage do my right side when I had a bearing failure on the road. Curious about the high cost. I was charged about $575 including the OEM bearing hub. Not too bad after watching them wrestle with it. The key was having a heavy duty puller and air tools.

    After watching that struggle I will have an independant shop replace the other one. Too much sledge swinging for me.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    California, USA
    Posts
    300

    Thumbs up

    Good on ya!
    JZ

    06 LR3 HSE all packages, ACM, 15.6" TV, power inverter, Boyo rear cam, GVIF, tint, radar dtctr, fulltime pwr plugs, Traxide dual battery, Superwinch EP9 w/remote, ARB on board air compressor, Safarigard front bumper, Baja Designs Soltek HID lights, Rover Specialty sliders, Asfir rear diff guard, High Country transfer case & tranny skids, custom steel rear bumper w/swing-away tire, rod mod, EBC brake discs/pads, Tru-Cool 4543 tranny cooler, emergency air up & hose covering mod, Koni shocks

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, Alabama
    Posts
    18
    Had my Hub and bearing set replaced last weekend along with my lower arms with all the new bushings and ball joint. Runs great!! and I was only charged $400 labor to do it (local guy). Now if I can just get my Radio fixed, I will be ok. The dealership replaced my command center saying it had water damage. I requested the old one and there wasnt even dust on it, much less corrosion. I just don't trust them.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by ktm_525 View Post
    I had a Ford garage do my right side when I had a bearing failure on the road. Curious about the high cost....
    That 'high cost' is always my issue with the Land Rover dealership here in Indianapolis. They wanted $350 to replace the thermostat. After looking at this forum, and buying the thermostat online (~ $30) and the gasket at the dealership (~ $2) it took me about 30 minutes to complete the repair. That's comes out to $600/hr in labor using their estimate. I don't even think lawyers charge that much.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Shropshire, UK
    Posts
    8
    Nice write up there.

    I just feel I need to clarify the Torque settings youre using though as it's quite important (especially for the Hub Nut).

    The Four Hub Bolts should be 115Nm or 85lb.ft
    You don't mention it, but the Caliper carrier bolts should be tightened to 275Nm or 203lb.ft

    The halfshaft retaining nut needs to be 230Nm or 169lb.ft You shoudl always use new hub nuts as teh retaining collar is designed to be indented in the driveshaft and stops it from coming undone!
    As said earlier, this is much easier to break the hub nut undone a touch when the wheen is on and teh car on the ground. 32mm Deep socket.

    An additional tip when trying to get the wheel bearing off (I like the idea of putting an old disk on backwards by the way)
    If you get a cold chisel and hit the hub to try to TURN the bearing casing in the hub, this will often make it easier to remove as you break the rust/crud and a simple hub puller can then do the rest.

    The rest of the bits (except the hub nut and the bearing itself) is also covered in my brake bible (posted elsewhere on here)

    The latest version is always available at this link

    http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/vi....php?f=4&t=353

    Hope that helps a bit further.

    Cheers

    Ian

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