Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29

Thread: Wheel Bearing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, Alabama
    Posts
    18

    Wheel Bearing

    The stealership said that I need a new wheel bearing on the Right Front wheel of my 2005 LR3 HSE. It seems that I would need to buy the Hub and Bearing together. Is that correct? Seems like I read that the bearing was not serviceable and it would be easier to put the hub with the bearing on than have to find someone to press out the old bearing etc. even if I could just do the bearing. At a cost of $185 for the hub and bearing, would that be the way to go?

    Matt

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    TX, US
    Posts
    204
    It is the only option. Hmm, that price for a hub/bearing assembly seems very low. If it is a genuine OEM part it's a great price, i'm suspicious.

    You can't do just the bearing, it's built to be replaced.
    PM me for Diff Parts, fridges, hitches

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, Alabama
    Posts
    18
    It is by Timken. should I opt for OEM instead? Is that what you are saying?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    TX, US
    Posts
    204
    Timken is OK
    PM me for Diff Parts, fridges, hitches

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Napa Valley, CA
    Posts
    168
    What were the symptoms for this?
    2005 LR3 V8 SE w/HD pkg, Sasquatch rods, 275/65/18 GoodYear Silent Armor, Hi-Country sliders & compressor mount, custom roof rack, custom skidplates, magnaflow exhaust, 6K HID upgrade, 4 x Hella 500FF

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, Alabama
    Posts
    18
    Took it to the stealership. they showed me the ability to wobble the tire when on the rack.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Napa Valley, CA
    Posts
    168
    Hmmm, mine does that too
    2005 LR3 V8 SE w/HD pkg, Sasquatch rods, 275/65/18 GoodYear Silent Armor, Hi-Country sliders & compressor mount, custom roof rack, custom skidplates, magnaflow exhaust, 6K HID upgrade, 4 x Hella 500FF

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    California, USA
    Posts
    300
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt White View Post
    Took it to the stealership. they showed me the ability to wobble the tire when on the rack.
    Did you have any wheel wobble while driving? Perhaps felt through the steering wheel?
    JZ

    06 LR3 HSE all packages, ACM, 15.6" TV, power inverter, Boyo rear cam, GVIF, tint, radar dtctr, fulltime pwr plugs, Traxide dual battery, Superwinch EP9 w/remote, ARB on board air compressor, Safarigard front bumper, Baja Designs Soltek HID lights, Rover Specialty sliders, Asfir rear diff guard, High Country transfer case & tranny skids, custom steel rear bumper w/swing-away tire, rod mod, EBC brake discs/pads, Tru-Cool 4543 tranny cooler, emergency air up & hose covering mod, Koni shocks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, Alabama
    Posts
    18
    Sometimes depending on speed. Real slow sometimes. I had an independent say that I needed it as well.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    6
    My wife's 2005 LR3 had the same issue after 165k miles. It made a humming sound that would go away when you made a right turn. The left hub was bad. The dealership wanted $650 per hub to replace them, so being the cheap ba$tard that I am, I ordered them online (Parts Geek part W0133-1777108 $182 each, free shipping) http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200..._assembly.html. I even took pictures for the next poor sob that has to do this.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1_SKF_hubs.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	102.2 KB 
ID:	27504
    The box indicates an SKF hub assembly, but looking on back of hub it reads 'Timken'.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2_Says_Timken.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	113.3 KB 
ID:	27505

    1) Jack up front, remove tire
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3_Wheel_Off.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	100.3 KB 
ID:	27506

    2) Remove brake line bracket
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4_Brakeline_Bracket.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	97.6 KB 
ID:	27507

    3) Remove brake caliper, see two bolts in picture
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	5_Caliper_Bolts.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	65.3 KB 
ID:	27508

    4) Hang caliper out of the way (14 guage household copper wiring is great)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	6_Hang_Caliper.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	98.3 KB 
ID:	27509

    5) Remove brake rotor using Torx wrench (I improvised)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	7_Torx_On_Rotor.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	102.7 KB 
ID:	27510
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	8_Rotor_Off.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	94.9 KB 
ID:	27511

    6) Remove ABS sensor. Undo bolt and jiggle out. Clean sensor with fingers.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9_Remove_ABS_Sensor.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	95.7 KB 
ID:	27512

    7) Remove four bolts holding hub on the axle
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	10_Back_Of_Hub.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	101.5 KB 
ID:	27513

    8) With a punch, un-dimple the hub nut
    9) I used a 32mm socket for the hub nut, it could have been a bit more snug but it still worked without buggering up the nut. Probably an SAE size that fits better.

    (((( I can only upload 10 pics max to this, so see next post))))

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •