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Thread: Intake Manifold replacement? WRONG!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    9

    Intake Manifold replacement? WRONG!

    Hey all,

    Just wanted to share some info that I've recently uncovered. GF has an 03 Freelander, and recently was having issues starting up due to a code related to the Variable Intake System. Few people I messaged from different forums and the different articles/threads I read all stated that the intake manifold had to be replace. This is grossly over exaggerated.

    If you are mechanically inclined, then you can save yourself a lot of money for less time. Found out that there are 2 VIS motors attached to the manifold (both on the top left corner while looking at the engine). These are the real cause of the 'car not starting' issue. I ended up taking the manifold off, snapping a few of the molded vacuum lines, etc., to figure out that the motors come off quite easily without removing the manifold. But good to do so anyway since there's probably a large quantity of oil clogged up within the manifold.

    So, took the manifold off, let the oil drain out, took off and opened the 2 motors (which were completely clogged with oil btw). After separating the motors, I got to the circuit board and saw the 2 switches were loose. Just resoldered them to the circuit board... reassemble and reattached everything - and the car started up fine.

    If you are going to attempt to do this, you need:
    - the RAVE manual - google it and you'll find it.
    - intelligence to decipher the manual to find what you're looking for.
    - basic tool set (phillips & flat screwdrivers, ratchet with extension (mostly 10mm socket will do), and a star bit set to remove the throttle body and the VIS motors.
    - a lot of patience and access to a parts store in case you break something (for me I snapped 3 different vacuum lines since they were molded and it was below 40F outside).
    - google "repair VIS motor" and you'll get a step by step on how to accomplish that.
    - take pictures and track all the parts you take off and from where - so it's easier to reassemble everything

    Will put up some pictures of my little repair experience in a bit so you can see exactly where the motors are after you take the engine cover off.

    Good luck to anyone trying this. Wasn't difficult, but definitely wasn't an easy job.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    9
    Intake Manifold from LR - 1200 + tax
    Labor charge from LR - 1500 + tax
    Labor charge from a regular shop - 800 + tax
    VIS motors from LR - 189 + tax (each)
    New Intake manifold o-rings from LR - 12 + tax (each - so 36 total for 3)

    Total repair cost - $50. Bought the O-rings from ebay for 24 bucks... vacuum lines from autozone... and repaired the motors so purchase of new ones not required. took a total of 7-8 hours since I didn't know I could repair them at first...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Cali
    Posts
    124
    Very nice, sure it'll help someone!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    9
    Yeah, had someone tried this earlier and posted it up, would have saved me hours of work. But in the end it was worth it, because it allowed me to clean out all the oil that was building up within the manifold which was one of the problems to begin with...
    Last edited by infamous95; 12-29-2011 at 03:35 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Pasadena
    Posts
    6
    I wish I had discovered this forum and these articles earlier. Google searches found the usual UK and US based forums but this particular forum seemed to have eluded me.

    I'm new to the Land Rover family and having purchased a used Freelander late last year, I soon discovered the noisy valve train typical of these V6 motors. In my search for information, all that I could find were the published technical service bulletins and other owners who had the manifolds replaced. The independent Mechanic that worked on my other vehicles was not LR qualified, but did some research through his limited resources. He too found the same articles in his research.

    With LR repair shops few and far between, I finally relented when the dashboard "Check Engine" lights came on. I took it to the nearby dealer which was five miles away I reluctantly drove into their repair bay. Looking back I wish I would have had them also return the older intake manifolds and maybe perform this repair myself for future sake. The cost of repair was near $4500 which --for consolation--also included replacement of all of the timing/serpentine belts.

    From knowledgeable member discussions on this forum, it appears the motors which control the flaps in the variable intake manifold are at fault. Oil saturation as well as some of the soldering points seem to contribute to the failure. Some soldering skills are necessary to make the repairs.

    Thank you infamous95 for this valuable information
    Last edited by squeegy200; 03-04-2013 at 06:23 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Lake Tahoe, CA
    Posts
    1
    All of the above text are relevant and very helpful and just want to add my experience from last night (3/13/13). As a Freelander owner we all know that we basically have bought a problem car but some of us have to keep this thing going. Regardless 301, 1471, 1472 code came on recently and car lost lots of power in first gear while getting going. Did a lot of research and was convinced that just changing out the VIS motors may not be good enough (based on what I read), new manifold $1100 was not an option and motors where about $150 each so did not want to take a chance and just change out the motors since a lot of people were saying that internal parts to the manifold break (plastic, rattle, etc.). Regardless my car is a 2004, the manifold on there turned out to be made in 2007 so last owner or one of the owners had purchased a new manifold and replaced around 2008 time frame. I bought a whole manifold from Junk Yard for $200, turned out to be made in 2002 off of a 2003 Freelander (found out when I got the part here). So I was very concerned when I was switching things that it may not work, regardless it was one of the easiest mechanical things I had done with the exception that everything was so brittle you have to make sure you don't break anything. Even all of the plastic tubing over the wires is falling apart, makes no senses. I have much older cars and have never seen so much crumbling.

    Still broke one vaccum hose T and ended up just putting back together and using electrical tape to seal it all, working great and actually probably stronger than it used to be. Regardless put the 2002 manifold in and everything is working fine. Started to look at my 2007 manifold and took the motors off, a lot of oil in the unit, the valves were all good and no rattle and everything seems to be functional. So one or both of my motors are playing games I will take them apart and look at the solder issue but overall the manifold was not as cheap and breakable as I was lead to believe. I would have shot myself if I had taken the car in and paid $2000 for the repair and then find out about the facts. Again this was one of the simplest engine related repairs I have done, things came apart very nicely, took pictures to make sure I knew how things went back together in case I was not going to put it together the same night. Cleaned and reused all old gaskets, they were all good on my part, the junk yard manifold was missing all kinds of screws and gaskets so had to transfer all of this over. I will clean and fix my old manifold and will either keep it for future or will sell it guess now that I know what is involved; for people who do not want to get into the headaches of it. I know a lot of people have given up on their Freelander after this problem has come up, wish the facts were more well known. Great forum. Hope this shed some more light on the issue.

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