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Thread: Tire Choices for the LR4

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    North Wales, PA
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    458
    Geting back to the original question, I did a little quick "lookaround" for size 19 and size 20 tires and I found that Nitto makes the Terra Grapplers in 265/50/20 which is just slightly bigger than factory 20's and should fit perfectly fine, though no one has yet to answer how big of a diameter can fit under there without a lift Factory size is 255/50/20 which is a 30" tire. The LR3 will fit a 31.5" tire with no problem and the 32" will JUST begin to rub in the back during full tire compression off road.
    Most AT tire sizes I saw in the 20" size were 275/55/20 which is 2 full inches bigger and a tad wider which and I'm assuming would not fit? But at least having the Nittos fit with no issues is a small consolation. I'm assuming the lack of feed back is due to the LR4s still being fairly new and most owners probably still using the factory tires so the mad rush for LR4 owners to start shopping for replacement tires has not hit yet!

    By the way, I noticed that LR went away from the GY HP (THANK GOD) and is currently using the Contact 4X4. How is that working out as a daily commute tire?
    Last edited by jantiz; 08-24-2011 at 12:53 PM.

    Luis


    07 LR3 SE / 06 LR3 HSE

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    30
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by NigelCowan View Post
    I have an LR4 that came with 19" wheels and 255/55R19 Continental Contact 4x4 tires. At that time there was approximately 1/2 an inch or less between the inside of the tire and the air strut. It seemed to me you couldn't go much wider unless you installed wheel spacers. I was not impressed with the Continental's so I bought the Pirelli Scorpian ATR's (the best tire I could find in 19"). The Pirelli's actually were skinnier than the Continental's even though they were a 255/55R19 too. Long story short there is not a lot of options for 19" wheels and the profile on a 20" wheel would leave you with no rubber.

    So in less then one year of having the LR4 I have tried two sets of tires and now bit the bullet and bought the 18" wheels from the UK and have had the GY MT/R's mounted! Happiness at last!
    I was in the same situation as you. I started off with the Contis, soon switched to the discontinued GY MTRs that were available in some Discount Tire warehouse. Then got the Compomotive 18"s with the new GY MTR/Ks. Did make some changes to the wheel wells in the back and shortened the rods by about 1cm. I do still notice some rubbing in the fronts at the 6:00 'o' clock position against the metal beam that is protruding, and that too with the wheel turned when it strikes against the beam. Have you noticed that too??
    Also, from what I understand the wheel balancing should be done by the dealership if you're running a full time rod mod.
    Last edited by puneetbhalla; 08-29-2011 at 11:05 PM.
    KF7PVP
    11 LR4 with HD, RS III sliders, Sump guard, LED Aux lights front and back, #10 Powertank, GY MTR-K 275/65/18, Superwinch 9.5 SR Hidden Winch, Traxide dual battery, ARB 50 qt fridge, Front Runner Wind Cheetah rack, G4 ladder, Yaesu 8800 off second battery

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by puneetbhalla View Post
    ...I do still notice some rubbing in the fronts at the 6:00 'o' clock position against the metal beam that is protruding, and that too with the wheel turned when it strikes against the beam. Have you noticed that too??
    Also, from what I understand the wheel balancing should be done by the dealership if you're running a full time rod mod.
    I get a little bit of rubbing too! It is ever so light though...

    The wheel balancing I had done at the tire store twice and then took it to the dealer. I'm just not sure whether it's the tires or something else?

    What pressure are you running your MT/R's at?

    Did you install your stock TPMS on the Compomotives? I'm thinking that they could be part of my problem? The TPMS unit was too big to install in the factory position so the tire guys rotated it 180 degrees... at this point the module unit has the posibility to swivel side to side a little on the tire stem. Just not sure if I want to go there yet?
    '96 Disco SD - 33" BFG's, 4.6 Motor, ARB Rear Locker, Ashcroft Front Locker, Ashcroft HD R&P (4.12), Rover Tracks HD F & R Axles, QT F & R Diff Guards, 2" OME Lift, OME Front Shocks, Terrafirma Big Bore Rear Shocks, 2" Rovertym Body Lift, Rovertym F & R Bumpers, Rovertym Front & Gas Tank Skid Plates, Rovertym Rock Sliders, Rover Tracks HD Drag Link, Rover Tracks HD High Clearance Tie Rod, Rover Tracks Steering Damper Relocation Kit, Rover Tracks Rear Trailing Arms, Tom Woods F & R Drive Shafts.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    30
    I did not get the TPMS sensors as Barry from Compomotive had recommended against it stating that the wheel well was too shallow to accomodate that. Now, some of the members of our club who got the same wheels subsequently did get the TPMS installed. They don't, however, run 32" tires. They have 31.5" tires. Maybe the combination of 32" tires and TPMS?? I was thinking of putting the TPM sensors but will not now. I can live with the blinking light.
    Am also thinking of decreasing the amount of lift. Mine is about 1.5". At speeds greater than 50 mph with the lift and taller tires, I have to be careful on freeway turns. Also, at the modified offroad height (aka the original extended mode) the suspension is very stiff and without much articulation. For what it's worth, will cut back to about 0.5 - 1" of lift. That might prevent the need for balancing as well, the wheel camber would not shift as much. Note that I have the original 19" rims with Michelins that I run most of the time. Much smoother, quieter. Most of the time this rig is driven by my wife.
    KF7PVP
    11 LR4 with HD, RS III sliders, Sump guard, LED Aux lights front and back, #10 Powertank, GY MTR-K 275/65/18, Superwinch 9.5 SR Hidden Winch, Traxide dual battery, ARB 50 qt fridge, Front Runner Wind Cheetah rack, G4 ladder, Yaesu 8800 off second battery

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by NigelCowan View Post
    What pressure are you running your MT/R's at?
    At the recommended pressures: 36 front and 42 rear.
    KF7PVP
    11 LR4 with HD, RS III sliders, Sump guard, LED Aux lights front and back, #10 Powertank, GY MTR-K 275/65/18, Superwinch 9.5 SR Hidden Winch, Traxide dual battery, ARB 50 qt fridge, Front Runner Wind Cheetah rack, G4 ladder, Yaesu 8800 off second battery

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    4
    This doesn't exactly address your question of tires that will fit without a lift, but here is a picture of the 275/55/20 Nitto Terra Grapplers I'm running. I have a 2.5" lift on the truck. Slight rubbing on the front wheels when I turn sharp, but I have a plan.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails out and about.jpg  
    2010 LR4, Nitto Terra Grappler (275/55/20), 2.5" lift - Johnson Rod's, Rock Sliders, Sump protector, air compressor protector

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by jantiz View Post
    though no one has yet to answer how big of a diameter can fit under there without a lift Factory size is 255/50/20 which is a 30" tire. The LR3 will fit a 31.5" tire with no problem and the 32" will JUST begin to rub in the back during full tire compression off road.
    You answered your own question. 31.5" as in 265/65x18 BG AT, or 285/60x18 ~nitto TG

    Seems to me the 20" tire sizes are completely useless so I don't know why they are being referenced here.

    A few notes on this ROD idea. A. you don't get any more lift than what is electronically available due to the physical limitations of the suspension design. In fact you loose articulation when using the rods such that you only have stiff height. This is useful in only a few situations. B. the modest tire size increase is not enough to help you through whatever you're worried about by just sticking with the 31.5-32" size. In fact it would make more sense to trim the body to allow a taller tire than it does to ruin the suspension/handling by installing the silly rods. Maximum height extension is easy to attain without the rods simply by inducing the system safeguard by lowering the vehicle onto an object at the trail head. C. Flying down the highway is much less safe while using the height extension due to rods as it will adversely affect all aspects of the suspension geometry and handling.

    The rods where you can easily make the change at a trail head are at least a good compromise. Still, I can bring my lr3 up to max height without them in less time than it takes to go around and adjust the rods by hand.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    7
    here's an example of it in the extended height:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by LR3project View Post
    You answered your own question. 31.5" as in 265/65x18 BG AT, or 285/60x18 ~nitto TG

    Seems to me the 20" tire sizes are completely useless so I don't know why they are being referenced here.

    A few notes on this ROD idea. A. you don't get any more lift than what is electronically available due to the physical limitations of the suspension design. In fact you loose articulation when using the rods such that you only have stiff height. This is useful in only a few situations. B. the modest tire size increase is not enough to help you through whatever you're worried about by just sticking with the 31.5-32" size. In fact it would make more sense to trim the body to allow a taller tire than it does to ruin the suspension/handling by installing the silly rods. Maximum height extension is easy to attain without the rods simply by inducing the system safeguard by lowering the vehicle onto an object at the trail head. C. Flying down the highway is much less safe while using the height extension due to rods as it will adversely affect all aspects of the suspension geometry and handling.

    The rods where you can easily make the change at a trail head are at least a good compromise. Still, I can bring my lr3 up to max height without them in less time than it takes to go around and adjust the rods by hand.
    The LR4 is a different animal than the LR3 when it comes to tire size. Our choices are not as extensive as LR3's due to the front brakes. Finding wheels that will work with the brakes is difficult. I had to go through multiple attempts by the tire shop to find some that would work over the calibers.

    The unavailability of aggressive traction in the 255/55/19's has been beaten to death on the forums. It's frustrating as an owner of a vehicle that you want to take off-road and you can not find tires to support that desire.

    You can pay close to $2,000 for some 18 inch wheels (no rubber yet) that will fit the LR4 shipped from overseas, but this solution is not for everyone.

    20's may not be the optimum off-road tire, but saying they are worthless is over reaching.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0384.jpg  
    2010 LR4, Nitto Terra Grappler (275/55/20), 2.5" lift - Johnson Rod's, Rock Sliders, Sump protector, air compressor protector

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    7
    I see, sorry for not knowing about the lr4 brake size. So you are saying there are no oem/factory 18" wheels on lr4's now? That's completely ridiculous. I'm going to have to follow up on that seeing as I had it in my mind I'd get an lr4 at some point.
    2007 LR3 HSE since new - ARB front + winch, Kaymar rear, full Rasta plates, RS slider/sills, dual battery, 2nd air tank on demand, 265x65x18 bfg at, Hannibal rack and awnings.
    2004 Discovery II since 2006 - OME +2"/BFG 265/75x16", dual battery, air tank, Hannibal roof rack
    1996 Discovery I since 2001 - 230,000 miles and running fine

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