Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 61

Thread: Cracked my Cooling System Bleeder Valve? OEM replacement necessary?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tempe, Arizona
    Posts
    147
    Quote Originally Posted by bbyer View Post
    When you get the part number, would you post it?

    This bleeder cap sounds like it should be added to my not so little spare parts kit.
    I'm working on updating my spares kit now. I'd like to hear what you carry...

    I have a couple of height sensors, brake pedal switch and fluids. I will also carry a spare bic pen too!
    2005 LR3 HSE, Dual Batteries, RS Stage III sliders, Rod-Mod, Mantec Front Skid, Rasta hidden winch w/Warn 9.5xp, 3/8" synth rope, 32" Goodyear Dura-Tracs, Viair 400c OBA, 10# CO2 PowerTank, HI-Lift with various recovery gear.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
    Posts
    432
    I'll dig up the part number from my receipt when I get home from work. Sounds like mine was in pretty good shape in comparison to others who have broken their bleeders. The Bleeder Tee has Hex on it to hold onto with a wrench, but I decided that since it was finger tight I'd grasp the tee with my fingers for additional leverage and laziness. This is what caused it to crack in my case... Oh well!

    I'm sure if one looked around enough a better Bleeder valve could be sourced and his wouldn't have to happen again.
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta Canada
    Posts
    565

    Hidden under the Engine Cover!

    Quote Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
    It's not part of the radiator, but it is part of the cooling system as a whole.

    If you remove the engine cover, right on top will be a cooling hose that runs from front to back, and in the middle will be a small plastic "T" with a metal cap on the 3rd fitting. This is the bleed valve.

    Mine literally disintegrated in my hands. The tubing was just fine, but the "T" fitting had seriously deteriorated.
    No wonder I could not find the bleeder. Thanks for telling me where to look.

    This reminded me of my 88 Chev pickup with the 350. GM has just introduced plastic radiator drain valves that year. That was my first experience with plastic bits in my hand and radiator fluid draining out. The air bleeder is of course very different and on top, not at the bottom like the drain valve, but back then one could drive around all day without a radiator cap; only water temperature would be affected. Now it seems every failure is a show stopper. The broken drain valve, I was at least able to shove it back in and with the rad cap removed, and drive to GM parts to get a new one.
    2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion Fog light bulbs; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion device; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Upper liftgate cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs; 3 Blink signal light mod; Clock on the Dash; LR4 shorter hitch receiver; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav data update.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
    Posts
    432
    Quote Originally Posted by bbyer View Post
    Now it seems every failure is a show stopper.
    You said it, Byer. It's really starting to feel that way.
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta Canada
    Posts
    565

    Bleeder Hose Part # LR006158 in lieu of BIC pen.

    Quote Originally Posted by craiglud View Post
    I will also carry a spare bic pen too!
    Per the previous posts, I was able to find the part number, (current part number LR006158 or old part number 4729521) of the bleeder hose assembly.

    I have jpgs of the bleeder hose off the MiamiBritish website and a hose layout pdf attachment from BritishPacific but for some reason, they will not attach. I now however understand what the talk was about re the 'Hoses" leading to the bleeder valve.

    I am therefore wondering what the ID of the hoses are as I have an idea for a spare to carry about in lieu of a BIC pen.

    Also the hose OD, as I would need a couple of hose clamps as well.

    Rather than a replacement tee fitting, brass or plastic, or just a simple straight hose to hose barbed brass connector, I am thinking of a brass Ball Seat swivel coupler fitting arrangement, similar to part number 131-xx, 134-xx, and 126-xx from a Fairview Fittings jpg that also will not post.

    The idea is that the ball seat can be loosened to bleed off the air, and then the metal to metal ball seat can be tightened up and would be leak resistant.

    To figure out what the xx would be, I therefore need the hose ID, and for the clamps, the OD, but that I can determine myself by removing the plastic "beuty" cover from the engine. Does that cover do anything else except look good?
    2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion Fog light bulbs; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion device; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Upper liftgate cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs; 3 Blink signal light mod; Clock on the Dash; LR4 shorter hitch receiver; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav data update.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by craiglud View Post
    Mine literally disintegrated on a trail run the other day. A fellow LR3 owner quickly pointed out the issue and we did a trail repair by cutting up a bic pen and splicing the hose together. Let me see, that was three weeks ago now
    I'm heading to the shop in the next week and will have them replace with the LR part then...
    Yup, love that trail fix.

    I had mine replaced but without the bleeder valve. Mine happened a week to the day before craiglud's and was the guinea pig for big pen and duct tape Umm, I'm not running a big pen still though

    If you work on your own rig do you actually use that bleeder valve? My tech said the dealers don't. And he had recommended replaced that 't' with a straight piece anyway.
    KF7KOY
    2005 LR3
    1994 DI (ROKROVR)
    1991 RRC
    www.azlro.org


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hacienda Heights, CA
    Posts
    432
    I was suprised to see how much heat shielding material was under that motor cover. I'd bet it's there to protect the cover from melting!
    2006 LR3 SE7 Heavy-Duty Pkg & 285/60 Nitto Terra Grapplers
    2003 Discovery II SE w/RTE 2" & 265/75 BFG KM (RIP)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta Canada
    Posts
    565

    Dealer does most of my work.

    The dealer does most of my work but I tend to carry spares of whatever, as north of me, the nearest dealer is in Iceland so parts availability can be a concern. That is why whenever I can find a Ford cross over number, that has great value to me - kind of piece of mind.

    Re the bleeder, the concern is that the plastic sounds delicate; also I expect the antifreeze is something special. I should really find out what type the coolant is as my wife's 4Motion Passat has some special sort of non USA antifreeze in it's 1.8L 4 cylinder - well maybe not be so special now as it seems GM is puttting Opal into every car now.

    Yes, probably the air bleed function is design overkill and not really required, but in theory, is a good idea.
    2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion Fog light bulbs; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion device; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Upper liftgate cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs; 3 Blink signal light mod; Clock on the Dash; LR4 shorter hitch receiver; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav data update.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta Canada
    Posts
    565

    Maybe to keep the heat in - seriously!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Legacy View Post
    I was suprised to see how much heat shielding material was under that motor cover. I'd bet it's there to protect the cover from melting!
    I have wondered if the cover really does serve a purpose other than to carry the Land Rover logo. My wifes Passat has a similar cover and I wondered if the function was as some sort of air movement / heat baffle.

    Baffle design for air cooled aircraft engines, (small Cessna, Piper, and Beech stuff with the Lycoming and Continental horizontally opposed engines), is a big deal - not too hot, not to cold), and I wondered if similar temperature maintenance concerns have finally arrived re the newer vehicle engines - that is the water cooling system cannot do it all.

    I am now inclined to think that more often than not, the covers have more to do with engine temperature and emmission controls rather than marketing.
    2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K H11 Yellow Ion Fog light bulbs; Rear Cargo area LED lighting; CounterAct LT-2 capacitive corrosion device; LLumar AIR80 Blue Low E clear Infra Red heat reducing side window tint; Upper liftgate cable release; Schrader valve "air in" mod to OEM air tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs; 3 Blink signal light mod; Clock on the Dash; LR4 shorter hitch receiver; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav data update.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    137
    Quote Originally Posted by bbyer View Post
    I have wondered if the cover really does serve a purpose other than to carry the Land Rover logo. .
    I think that design and functionality is strictly environmental and , not to my surprise, animal friendly.I , for one find out about it semi hard way.While changing thermostat, i looked deeper into the cavities of engine compartment and discovered , that half of my engine cover's insulation , is nicely tucked in the form of MICE nest ...along , of course, with usual creature comforts , such as sunflower seeds and many, many more dried nuts, that names i cannot even pronounce.there was my chance now..., I thought, to discover the power of my new vacuum cleaner from COSTCO, so i proceeded with thorough clean up of The entire engine bay.Nest was apparently abandoned for this moment , so i had no regards for disturbing a peace of pesky little creatures , that probably , called my LR3 , home , for a while at least...Long story short..i will never park in detached garage again, that consists a full bag of BIRD's SEEDS, from costco, obviously, that
    I purchased a long time a go for my back yard's bird feeder.
    Well , at least , they did not feast on any harness, that would be a disaster...I hear , that all automakers try to go GREEN by converting from petroleum base wire insulation to soy base , guess who LOVE this stuff?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •