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Thread: Tool questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fairport, NY
    Posts
    1,081

    Tool questions

    I've been looking for something to spread the frame on my D1 so I can do the tranny filter.

    This is all I have found:

    4 ton press: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44899

    10 ton press: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44900

    4 ton is $90.00, 10 ton is $150.00.

    Anyone got any other ideas or places I can look? Is $90.00 a good price for a new one?

    Last: do I have to open the frame much, or just enough to be able to wiggle the crossbar free?

    Thanks.
    Brockflock
    Disco I SD '99 Stock 144k mi. New stock suspension, new steering box, new rear shaft joints, Cooper Discovery ATR's and announcing a totally redone set of heads. May 2013: Brakes converted to Defender style: Calipers, stainless flex lines, drilled, slotted and vented rotors. Stops like it hit a wall when you stand on them now!
    12-2016 update: Coopers are done. Michelin Defender LTXs on the way!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Auburn, CA
    Posts
    1,099
    I use my hilift jack.

    -Jeff
    All it needs is just a little luvin'

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fairport, NY
    Posts
    1,081
    Quote Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
    I use my hilift jack.

    -Jeff
    And I have one of those! Ingenuity at it's best. I'll give that a try.

    Thanks!
    Brockflock
    Disco I SD '99 Stock 144k mi. New stock suspension, new steering box, new rear shaft joints, Cooper Discovery ATR's and announcing a totally redone set of heads. May 2013: Brakes converted to Defender style: Calipers, stainless flex lines, drilled, slotted and vented rotors. Stops like it hit a wall when you stand on them now!
    12-2016 update: Coopers are done. Michelin Defender LTXs on the way!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Auburn, CA
    Posts
    1,099
    You dont need to spread it far. You shouldn't even need to go to the next 'click'.

    -Jeff
    All it needs is just a little luvin'

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Millstadt, IL
    Posts
    687
    You can use your bottle jack too!
    Larry K, ASE
    Millstadt ,IL
    2011 LR4 HSE LUX
    Prev. owns: 87 RR Classic, 96 D1 4.0, 96 P38 4.6

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,408
    I have a small Porta-Power (about like the one in the first link in the first post) that would probably work fine for this job, but never bothered with it. I just hammer and lever the thing out, I've removed about 6 of them from different vehicles so far (5 RRCs, 1 Disco) and haven't encountered too much difficulty. Used a floor jack to get them back in place with a few taps from the hammer to fine-tune the alignment. Seems like the Porta-Power would do the job just fine, it's just that by the time I could dig it out of the shed and get it set up I could already have had the crossmember out and on the ground.
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    3,110
    You really only need to open up the framerails the tiniest bit, a Hi-Lift can be tough to use under a truck, you mite have better luck with a bottle-jack and a chunk of 4x4.

    Quote Originally Posted by ethan007 View Post
    What you need more than this dude? I think 4 tones in $90 is really good.
    How has this guy not been banned yet? His posts are vaugly related to the topic at best and never make much sense and the links to random things in his signature keep multiplying.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, then you have an electrical problem.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Redwood Valley, CA
    Posts
    1,102
    I think Nathan and I just hammered it forward with a deadblow hammer and didn't remove it all the way.

    Granville aka Gran or Granny
    '06 LR3 SE7 V8
    North California Wine Country
    http://home.comcast.net/~teacupfarm/index.html

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kelseyville, Ca.
    Posts
    2,408
    If you're just doing the filter then I can see how that would be a good option. Unfortunately, every time I've had to remove one it's been for tranny and/or T-case removal, so it has to come clear out. Just did one down in the Bay Area last week, changed out the tranny on a '95 for a guy. What fun that was...
    '91 RRC-4.2, R380, LT230, GDE bumper with Smittybuilt 8K winch, Custom 3" lift, 33's, Equipe trailing arms, Rock Ware sliders, Custom diff guards, Maxyedor HD steering, TT/Detroit, Rovertracks axles
    '61 Series II 88"
    '95 D90
    '94 RRC County LWB

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    1,014
    You can just knock it out with a hammer, do your work, then knock it back in place.
    Tom
    62 88 Regular
    67 109 NADA x2
    79 Lightweight
    95 D1 R380
    95 D90 300tdi R380
    97 D1 ZF

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

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